Watches & Wonders 2025: Attractive materials & new technologies
Watches & Wonders 2025: Attractive materials & new technologies
As with the design, when it comes to materials and technology, you might think that there is nothing that has not already made it onto the wrist as part of a timepiece. Far from it. Engineers and designers continue to come up with innovations. Added to this are the creative uses of materials that only found their way into the world of watches a few years ago. Aluminium bronze, carbon, titanium, ceramic, metallic glass - it's a wide field.
The dial as a canvas Colour, texture and pattern Inhibitedly revealing Whirlwinds for the wrist Precious stones
Ulysse Nardin – “Diver [AIR]”: The Swiss manufacturer unequivocally describes this innovation as the lightest mechanical diving watch ever produced. Its story began in 2021 when Ulysse Nardin introduced the "Diver X Skeleton." However, as the ultimate haute horlogerie sports timepiece, the brand felt it wasn't enough. Its goal was to be more robust, more elegant, and above all, lighter—and that's exactly what it was. The "Diver [AIR]" weighs just 52 grams including the strap. The UN-374 caliber was developed for this purpose. Although the structure of the movement now only takes up 20 percent of the space in the case, the extremely skeletonized titanium movement with a 90-hour power reserve can withstand shocks of 5,000 G.
It is protected by a 44-millimeter case, water-resistant to 20 bar, made of a modular construction made of titanium and carbon fiber.
The flanks are made of a composite of Nylo-Foil and carbon fiber. (RRP €37,770)
Bremont – “Terra Nova 40.5mm Date Bronze”: Bronze, traditionally associated with nautical voyages, has also been a compelling choice for wrists for years. Bremont has now used aluminum bronze for this new "Terra Nova" watch. It's hypoallergenic and more scratch-resistant than conventional bronze, and it also develops a gradual and even patina. This harmonizes with the dark green gradient dial.
The automatic caliber BE-36AE, a modified SW200-1 from Sellita, performs its reliable service in the case, which is water-resistant to ten bar.
It drives the rose-gold-plated hour, minute, and second hands, as well as the date display at 3 o'clock. (RRP €4,300)
Hublot – “Big Bang Unico Magic Ceramic”: The "Magic Ceramic" used here is the result of several years of development. The magic of it is its multicoloration, long considered the holy grail of ceramics. Hublot has succeeded and filed a patent for the process. It is now used in the 42-millimeter "Big Bang Unico Magic Ceramic," limited to 20 pieces and water-resistant to 10 bar.
Its bezel is made of dark grey ceramic, on which rich blue circles are arranged in a seemingly random and organic pattern.
Inside is the in-house Unico Flyback chronograph movement with automatic winding. (RRP €34,300)
IWC Schaffhausen – “Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL”: As the Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One team embarks on the new season, the Swiss brand presents this tribute to Toto Wolff, Austrian racing driver, investor, and head of motorsport at Mercedes. Limited to 100 pieces and water-resistant to 10 bar, the 44-millimeter watch combines the manufacturer's "SPRIN-g PROTECT" shock absorber system with a technical design inspired by the team's colors.
The shock-absorbing spring is made of a so-called metallic glass and coated with Superluminova in Petronas green.
The automatic movement 32101 caliber offers a 120-hour power reserve.
Armin Strom –: “Tribute2 Copper“: The visible mechanical elements of this ten-piece timepiece reveal the intricate decoration of the innovative movement. Furthermore, the base plate is finished with a grattage decoration in an elegant copper tone. Originally developed in mechanical engineering to create perfectly flat surfaces, the material here is not engraved, hammered, or polished, but carefully scraped by hand.
The barrel, a distinguishing feature of the “Tribute” models and prominently displayed on the front of the watch, is skeletonized in this edition.
The in-house developed and manufactured AMW21 hand-wound movement in the 38-millimeter stainless steel case offers a power reserve of 100 hours.
Zenith – “Chronomaster Revival A3818 Cover Girl Carbon”: Following the stainless steel model from 2020 and a titanium version from 2022, the "Cover Girl" returns with a carbon composite case. The name refers to the "A3818" from 1971, which made it onto the cover of the book "Zenith – Precision Watches since 1865." Now, the original design of the 37-millimeter case made of lightweight carbon composite is presented.
The dial is also made of this material and features the characteristic “shark tooth” second scale.
The titanium case back with black PVD coating and sapphire crystal provides a view of the El Primero 400 automatic caliber. The rapid oscillator offers a 50-hour power reserve.
Deutsch 
English (UK)