Watches & Wonders 2025: Inhibitedly revealing
Watches & Wonders 2025: Inhibitedly revealing
Providing insights – this is something that Swiss watch brands in particular sometimes find difficult. Especially when it comes to production techniques or even business figures. However, it's not difficult for them at all when it comes to demonstrating their technical expertise in watch movement technology. They are happy to show off freely, although here too – due to the internal mechanics – inhibitions certainly play a role.
The dial as a canvas Colour, texture and pattern Attractive materials & new techniques Precious stones Whirlwinds for the wrist
Hublot – “Big Bang Meca-10”: This timepiece, first introduced in 2016, is back, with an optimized caliber, housed in a more compact 42-millimeter case made of King Gold, titanium, or frosted carbon. And because the LVMH brand deliberately omitted the dial on the "Big Bang Meca-10," the details of the skeletonized hand-wound HUB1205 movement can be viewed and discovered from various angles. With its three linear bridges fixed to the mainplate, the new interpretation differs significantly from its predecessor.
In addition, the movement is galvanically colored to match the case. The 10 in the name refers to the ten-day power reserve, which is provided by two spring barrels.
The remaining power can be read off via a digital display. (RRP €23,500, €23,900, and €44,500, respectively)
Ulysse Nardin – Blast [Amoureux Peintre]: This timepiece, created through a collaboration between the Swiss watch brand and fashion designer Amoureuxpeintre and limited to 29 pieces, offers a glimpse of something a little different than "just" skeletonized. Ulysse Nardin reworked every element of the "Blast Skeleton X" and created a blurred transparency of frosted sapphire crystal. This required two years of development. Now, as a dial and caseback, it subtly reveals the contours of the skeletonized movement.
This is the in-house caliber UN-371, which offers a power reserve of 96 hours and is equipped with a wide and lightweight balance wheel made of silicon with nickel centrifugal weights.
It is protected by a 42-millimeter titanium case. (RRP €33,100)
Raymond Weil – Freelancer Caliber RW1212 Skeleton: Launched in 2007, the RW1212 caliber, developed by the Geneva-based brand, represents an important milestone in the history of Raymond Weil. The idea for the movement came from Elie Bernheim, grandson of founder Raymond Weil, and was developed in close collaboration with Sellita experts.
The watch brand's research and development department redesigned each component to highlight the balance wheel at the 6 o'clock position and the watch's mechanics using an openwork bridge.
This movement is also featured in the new "2795-BKC-20000" model, limited to 500 pieces, featuring a 40-millimeter, cushion-shaped stainless steel case with a black PVD coating and water-resistant to 10 bar. (RRP €3,725)
ArtyA – “Purity Wavy HMS Mirror”: The independent watch brand from Geneva proudly displays the caliber, which is entirely manufactured in-house, with as much openness as possible. Stairway To Heaven HMS—the name of the manually wound movement—owes its enduring precision to, among other things, the traditional fine adjustment mechanism and the two parallel yoke barrels. It is housed in the brand's wavy case, in this case crafted from understated titanium with a transparent DLC coating.
Together, these create the "Purity Wavy Titanium Mirror," limited to 99 pieces, with—as the name suggests—a mirrored caseback. From the front, this creates the illusion of great depth, in which the movement appears to float.
From the back, the one-way mirror effect hints at the complexity of the movement without revealing it completely. (RRP €27,900)
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