Column: All good things come in threes! Or will Breitling's shopping spree continue?

Column: All good things come in threes! Or will Breitling's shopping spree continue?

Breitling's currently "most affordable" watch, the "Endurance Pro 38," costs €3,300. Prices go up to €71,500 for the "Premier B21 Chronograph Tourbillon 42 Willy Breitling." However, the majority of the Swiss brand's watches are priced between €5,000 and €10,000.

After Universal Genève, the Breitling universe has now become a trio with Gallet – and thus also a broader price range. Whether Breitling CEO Georges Kern's shopping spree is far from certain, however.

Breitling Purchase No. 1: Universal Genève

Kern adds: “Rebuilding a brand with such a rich history won’t happen overnight – it’s meticulous, dedicated work that lies ahead of us in the coming years.”

And so, the first new models from Universal Genève aren't scheduled to appear until 2026 at the earliest. So, they're taking their time to recoup the investment costs; but they're already celebrating the acquisition with lavish events for the watch community and even involving 20 of Universal Genève's "most important collectors, veterans of the watch industry, and the trade press" in the strategic deliberations.

This makes it clear that it won't be affordable for watch lovers, especially not cheaper than Breitling's core price range. Why would they bring their own competition into the market?

Breitling Purchase No. 2: Gallet

The same applies to Breitling's latest acquisition: Gallet. With this third brand, Georges Kern rounds out the portfolio at the lower end. Watches from the brand, founded in 1826, are expected to cost between €3,000 and €5,000. Like Universal Genève, the brand is currently seeking revival.

“With this acquisition, Breitling is taking the next step in its expansion.”

Georges Kern

"We are reviving Gallet under the umbrella of Breitling's expertise and craftsmanship. This reflects our long-term vision: to revive Gallet as a strong watch brand while honoring its legacy of adventure and innovation in the chronograph field," explains Georges Kern.

“The acquisition of Gallet is the second important step in our long-term strategy,” said Alfred Gantner.

“Doesn’t sound like the Breitling shopping spree is over with the completed trio.”

Antje Heepmann (watch journalist)

Expansion of the portfolio

After Breitling was trimmed to become a “cool brand” in recent years with casual boutique interiors and its own restaurants, Universal Genéve and Gallet seem to be placing more emphasis on Swiss watch tradition again.

The first watches are expected to demonstrate this in 2026, according to the official announcement:

"In doing so, Breitling continues its commitment to shaping the future of Swiss watchmaking while honoring the brand's past. The return of Gallet in 2026 underscores its commitment to tradition, quality, and a spirit of adventure, taking watchmaking in innovative new directions."

However, the risk will be minimized, as Georges Kern revealed to the Swiss Handelszeitung: "The new brand will rely on the existing Breitling structures – 'same supply chain, same manufacturing, same management and same distribution network'."

Understandable. After all, the price segment between €3,000 and €5,000 is a difficult one. Export figures for the Swiss watch industry show a sustained shift toward the high-price range. But that doesn't deter Kern and Partners Group.

"The oft-heard argument that only the high-end segment is working isn't true," the Breitling CEO is quoted as saying by Handelszeitung, which, citing an industry insider, also estimates a purchase price of between ten and 15 million Swiss francs for Gallet. Universal Genève is said to have cost around 60 million.

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About Gallet

Gallet was founded in 1826 by Julien Gallet in La Chaux-de-Fonds and stands for robust timepieces for racing, aviation and off-road expeditions.

In 1856, Gallet expanded into the US market. In 1890, Jules Racine & Co. became the sole distributor of Gallet watches in North America, the brand's primary market.

In 1907, Gallet acquired the watch factory Société d'Horlogerie Electa and founded Fabrique d'Horlogerie Electa, Gallet & Co. The period from the acquisition until 1926 was marked by technical innovations, patents, and international recognition, laying the foundation for Gallet's future as a leading brand in the field of precision watches.

Thereafter, Gallet continued to focus on the well-established US market, acting primarily as an établisseur—a developer of watches manufactured and assembled in Switzerland.

When the Swiss watch industry was hit by the quartz crisis and the sharp rise of the Swiss franc in the 1970s and 1980s, Gallet, like many other major names, fell silent. Now, under the Breitling umbrella, the brand is poised for its long-awaited return.

Among Gallet's many timepieces, two models in particular stand out: The "Flying Officer" from 1939 was a waterproof chronograph designed for tracking multiple time zones. It became a companion for many pilots and passengers in the early days of intercontinental flights, when multi-day flights required multiple stops for refueling. Even President Harry S. Truman owned a personalized "Flying Officer."

Equally important was the "MultiChron Clamshell," introduced in 1938 – one of the first waterproof chronographs designed to protect against dust, moisture, and heavy rain. Developed in various versions for racing, speedboating, aviation, and other sports, the MultiChron series became a milestone in Gallet's history.