Watches & Wonders 2025: Thinner, lighter, smaller
Watches & Wonders 2025: Thinner, lighter, smaller
Precision and gear stability my arse. The race for the top spots has long been decided by dimensions of all kinds. However, it is not uncommon for their reduction to require a particularly high level of watchmaking expertise.
There was a whole range of timepieces to discover at Watches & Wonders, whose creators have shown great ambition in terms of being flatter, lighter and smaller.
You can see a small selection of the results of these endeavours here.
Bulgari has often surpassed itself when it comes to seemingly two-dimensional watch architecture. Ten world records for flatness in eleven years speak for themselves. The new world record holder, the "Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillo," measures just 1.85 millimetres in its entirety. This makes it 3.15 millimetres thinner than the thinnest model with a flying tourbillon at the time, the "Octo Finissimo Tourbillon" with a hand-wound movement from 2014. At 1.95 millimetres, even the inner workings of the record-breaking watch at the time were higher than the complete "Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon" of today. It therefore rightly bears the title: World's thinnest watch with tourbillon.
The flatness is once again made possible by the extreme skeletonisation, which Bulgari has also optimised with numerous decorative techniques to create an aesthetic eye-catcher.
Only what was absolutely necessary for the correct running of the time was allowed to remain. And that is first and foremost the BVF 900 tourbillon calibre with four hertz and a 42-hour power reserve. It is equipped with a tungsten carbide main plate, which also functions as the case back and makes a separate dial superfluous.
Data: Case (platinum, tungsten carbide, 40 mm), movement (BVF 900 with manual winding and 42-hour power reserve), bracelet (titanium), RRP (€750,000)
As Patek Philippe In October last year, the new line "Cubitus" was launched, opinions were divided. The imposing 45 millimetre square casing in particular caused surprise and scepticism in equal measure.
By its standards, the manufactory has reacted quickly - or did it have the now presented 40 millimetre version in two versions already in the quiver anyway. Apart from the size, Patek has not changed any relevant parameters. Only a brown dial and a rose gold bracelet have been added.
Data: Case (white gold/rose gold), movement (26-330 S C with automatic winding and max. 45-hour power reserve), bracelet (white gold/rose gold), RRP (€75,320)
The Swiss manufactory Ulysse Nardin describes its novelty "Diver [AIR]" without restrictions as the lightest mechanical diver's watch ever made. Its story began in 2021, when Ulysse Nardin presented the "Diver X Skeleton". But as the ultimate haute horlogerie sports timepiece, this was not enough for the brand. It needed to be more robust, more elegant and, above all, lighter - and it was. Just once 52 grammes with strap is what the "Diver [AIR]" weighs. The UN-374 calibre was developed for this purpose.
Although the structure of the movement now only takes up 20 per cent of the space in the case, the extremely skeletonised titanium movement with a 90-hour power reserve can withstand shocks of 5,000 G. It is protected by the 44-millimetre case, which is water-resistant to 20 bar and made from a modular construction of titanium and carbon fibre. The flanks are made of a composite of nylo-foil and carbon fibre.
Data: Case (recycled titanium, nylo-foil, carbon, 44 mm, water-resistant to 20 bar), movement (UN-374 with automatic winding and 90-hour power reserve), strap (elasticated with Velcro fastening), RRP €37,7700)
For the 270th anniversary Vacheron Constantin not miss the opportunity to Most complicated wristwatch in the world to create. Last year, the manufactory presented the world's most complicated watch in the form of a pocket watch weighing 980 grams and combining 63 complications.
Now follows the "Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grande Complication - La Première" with 41 complications and 13 patent applications. This unique piece is the result of eight years of research, culminating in the manufacture calibre 3655, consisting of 1,521 components, a true marvel of watchmaking. Miniaturisation stands.
Christian Selmoni (Style & Heritage Director Vacheron Constantin) explains: "It was indeed an enormous challenge to fit 1,521 components into a case for a chiming watch with a diameter of 45 millimetres and a height of just 14.99 millimetres. Every millimetre was used for the calibre 3655, especially for the minute repeater with Westminster play with four hammers and bells. The new design combines more compact dimensions with optimised mass: hammers and bells are now arranged on both sides of the base plate - for greater efficiency and a reduced overall height."
Data: Case (white gold, 45 mm), movement (3655 with manual winding and 72-hour power reserve), bracelet (calfskin)
Oris has the "Big Crown Pointer Date" was introduced back in 1938. And although its actual purpose - to provide reliable and always perfectly legible time information for pilots - has not been up to date for a long time, Oris has never stopped producing this model.
And there have always been adaptations to the spirit of the times. For example, the latest "Big Crown Pointer Date" comes in a 40-millimetre version as well as a 34 millimetre format with a light brown dial and a black dial version with twelve laboratory diamonds as indices.
Data: Case (stainless steel, 34 mm, water-resistant to 5 bar), movement (531 with automatic winding and 42-hour power reserve), bracelet (stainless steel), RRP (€1,900/2,800)
The "Wild One" from Norqain With a diameter of 39 millimetres and a skeletonised automatic movement, the 64 grammes on the scales. This lightness is due to the patented Norteq carbon fibre material, which combines weight minimisation with robustness.
The composite developed exclusively for Norqqin is the result of a collaboration between Jean-Claude Biver and BIWI SA and also has visual benefits with its marble effect. The case consists of two separate Norteq components. Between them is a rubber damper from BIWI, which absorbs shocks even during extreme activities.
Data: Case (Norteq, 39 mm, water-resistant to 20 bar), movement (N08S with automatic winding and 41-hour power reserve), strap (rubber), RRP (€5,390)
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