Watches & Wonders 2025: The world and the times in view (or not)
Watches & Wonders 2025: The world and the times in view (or not)
The addition in brackets refers to a Hermès timepiece - which simply lets time be time and negates it. More on this below.
All the other new products listed here, on the other hand, are not even content with just one time for themselves and their wearers. Instead, they cast their measuring gaze on different places in the world. GMT and world time are the functions that make this possible and enrich many of the new watches presented at Watches & Wonders.
"Dual Time GMT Manufacture Edition Black" - or when two disturbances vibrate in unison, as the Armin Strom describes this innovation as the creating brand.
At its heart is the Manufacture's 18th movement, the ARF22 calibre consisting of 231 components. With two balance wheels oscillating in resonance, the patented coupling mechanism allows their vibrations to synchronise and regulate each other to ensure very high precision - even in the event of shocks and vibrations.
The GMT function of the timepiece, which is limited to 50 pieces, has two independent dials, each with its own day/night indicator. In addition, the hour and minute hands can be adjusted independently so that time periods outside the GMT zone can be set to fractions of an hour.
Data: Case (stainless steel, 39 mm, water-resistant to 5 bar), movement (ARF22 with manual winding and 42-hour power reserve), strap (alligator leather), RRP (€110,100)
The Cyrus-The new year started with the launch of the new "Dominion" collection. The new "Dominion GMT" is available in two editions:
A gold version limited to 25 pieces and a titanium version limited to 28 models. Both feature the CYR708 automatic calibre developed by Jean-François Mojon. Its performance is transferred to the multi-layered, skeletonised dial, whose upper bridge in the shape of a palm tree emphasises the movement of the movement's springs, wheels and gears.
The various hands ensure that the time zones are easy to read at a glance: generously dimensioned, black, open-worked central hands for the local time function with Arabic numerals on a transparent disc and a retrograde hand with a triangular tip on a matt opal grey arc in the centre of the display with a mixture of Arabic numerals and dots for reading the second 24-hour time zone.
Data: Case (rose gold/titanium, 42 mm, water-resistant to 10 bar), movement (CYR708 with automatic winding and 55-hour power reserve), strap (alligator leather), RRP (CHF 44,800/24,800)
The "Le temps suspendu" model has Hermès was first presented in 2011. Since then, it has shown its wearers that time is not everything - and that it can simply be stopped and made to disappear. Translated, this watch means "The stopped time", and the name says it all, inviting you to break with the conventions of time and seize the moment. Because those who forget time enjoy it, Hermès is certain. And the brand has created a watch that does just that.
This extraordinary functionality of a timepiece has found its way into the "Arceau" collection for the first time.
The "Arceau Le temps suspendu" has an openwork dial that provides a view of the "Le temps suspendu" module.
The mechanism is powered by the Hermès H1837 manufacture movement, which can be seen through the transparent case back.
And this not only ensures that the time is reliably displayed, but also that it is not displayed.
The corresponding "Le temps suspendu" function is activated by a button on the left-hand side of the case. The hour and minute hands are positioned directly at 12 o'clock and remain there for as long as the wearer wishes to take a break before pressing the button again.
During the "stopped time", the 24-second counter turns anti-clockwise and in turn encourages a playful and individual approach to time.
Data: Case (grey/rose gold, 42 mm, water-resistant to 3 bar), movement (H1837 with automatic winding and 45-hour power reserve + "Le temps suspendu" module), strap (alligator/calfskin), RRP (€38,000/33,000)
No Watches & Wonders without new "Reverso" models with the iconic reversible case from Jaeger-LeCoultre. This includes two new versions of the "Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds".
With a choice of a pure black or bright blue lacquered dial and a newly designed silver-coloured dial on the back, the new timepieces pay tribute to the early "Reverso" models of the 1930s - albeit with only one dial at the time. Since the early 1990s, this line has been enriched by models with two dials lying back to back.
Each has its own set of hands that rotate in opposite directions, even though they are driven by the same movement. The Duoface calibre has a second gear train that ensures that the hands on the rear dial rotate in the opposite direction.
Based on this legacy, the latest "Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds" A different time zone on each dial display. In addition, the dial on the front has a small second hand and the dial on the back has a 24-hour day/night display.
The Calibre 854 is designed so that the minutes of both dials and the hours of the dial on the front can be set via the crown, while the hours of the second time zone are regulated via a small slide that is embedded in the upper edge of the case. This slider is completely invisible so as not to detract from the slim case design and only appears when the case is removed from the frame for turning.
Data: Case (stainless steel, 47×28.3 mm, water-resistant to 3 bar), movement (Jaeger-LeCoultre 854 with manual winding and 42-hour power reserve), strap (calfskin/fabric), RRP (€14,700)
Ressence was founded in 2010 and each of its creations reveals the brand's two main characteristics at first glance: exceptional design and rotating circles.
This is also demonstrated by the new "Type 7" with a blue or aquamarine-coloured dial. For the first time, it is fitted with a titanium bracelet. The latter offers the special feature of a folding clasp with five adjustable positions. Naturally, the "Type 7" has Ressence's characteristic dial, which allows it to be read from all angles and gives the impression that the indices, hands and numerals are displayed directly on the glass.
This projection effect is created by the narrow gap between the inside of the glass and the surface of the dial. Filled with oil is.
For the 15th anniversary, the GMT function complements the rotating displays for minutes, hours, oil temperature and the so-called shock absorber, which completes a 360-degree rotation in 120 seconds.
At the heart of the "Type 7" is the patented ROCS 7, a mechanical movement module that practically floats in oil and is separate from the base calibre. A series of micromagnets transmit information via a titanium diaphragm, which is driven by the minute axis and thus ensures perfect synchronisation of the dial elements.
Data: Case (titanium, 41 millimetres, water-resistant to 5 bar), movement (ROCS 7 with automatic winding and 36-hour power reserve), bracelet (titanium), RRP (CHF 36,000)
Flatter than a passport! With these words Nomos Glassworks the new "Club Sport neomatik world time". What you notice at first glance. The Worldtimer from Glashütte Manufaktur is definitely prettier than the identity card.
For the first time, Nomos has integrated the must-have function for all globetrotters into a "Club Sport". The stainless steel case, which is water-resistant to ten bar, uses the Brand new DUW 3202 manufacture calibrein which the world time function has been fully integrated into the neomatik calibre.
The result: With an overall height of 9.9 millimetres, the "Club Sport neomatik Weltzeit" is an extremely slim representative of its kind. There is a choice of a deep blue and a silver-coloured dial with a sunburst finish. There are also six coloured model variants, each limited to 175 pieces.
Data: Case (stainless steel, 40 mm, water-resistant to 10 bar), movement (DUW 3202 with automatic winding and 42-hour power reserve), bracelet (stainless steel), RRP €3,940)
In the year 2022 Parmigiani Fleurier with the "Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante" once again proves that a so-called horological complication does not have to be complicated to use - and can radiate simple elegance. The easy-to-use GMT mechanism is integrated extremely discreetly on the dial.
This is characterised by the two superimposed hour hands: one in white gold and one in rose gold. By pressing the pusher at the 8 o'clock position, the upper hand, which is intended for local time, moves forwards and reveals the rose gold hand, which shows the home time, i.e. the time at the wearer's place of residence.
If the specification of the second time zone When the white gold hand is no longer required, it can be easily reset to the rose gold hand by pressing the rose gold pusher integrated into the crown, just as with a split-seconds chronograph.
The elegant background of the new "Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante" is a green Verzasca dial, inspired by the crystal-clear, mineral-rich waters of the Verzasca Valley in Switzerland.
It is finely hand-guilloched with the "Grain d'Orge" pattern.
Data: Case (stainless steel and platinum, 40 mm, water-resistant to 6 bar), movement (PF051 with automatic winding and 48-hour power reserve), bracelet (stainless steel), RRP €32,400)
In the new "Calatrava Pilot Travel Time reference 5524G-010" in white gold from Patek Philippe is worn on a bracelet made of khaki green composite material with a textile structure.
The new aviation-inspired watch features an ivory-coloured lacquered dial with an unmistakable vintage aspect. The travel watch is powered by the calibre 26-330 S C FUS self-winding movement, which is characterised by its user-friendly system for displaying the time. second time zone characterised.
If the local time is set forwards or backwards, the date hand is automatically set correctly at 6 o'clock, even if midnight is exceeded when changing zones. The two time zone pushers have a patented screw lock that prevents accidental adjustment of the local time.
Data: Case (white gold, 42 mm, water-resistant to 3 bar), movement (26-330 S C FUS with automatic winding and 45-hour power reserve), bracelet (composite material), (RRP €59,910)
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