Ploch Pearls: pearl jewellery with a difference

Ploch Pearls transforms pearls into unique pieces of jewelry. They become the centerpiece of designs that play with shapes, colors, materials, and craftsmanship. This jewelry, with its extraordinary character, has managed to remain particularly memorable for me.

Left: Pearl design by Ploch Pearls. © Ploch Pearls

I first stumbled upon Ploch Pearls at a small trade fair in Vienna in 2024. It's a story that's especially good to tell right now, because it's June and the pearl is the birthstone—or rather, one of the birthstones—of the month of June.

Click here for the article: Birthstone of the month June, part 1: The pearl

Dare to be extravagant? What kind of jewelry do we actually wear?

The jewelry designs by Ploch Pearls in their display cases at the fair immediately caught my eye. Until then, I had never seen jewelry that featured a pearl as its centerpiece, but simultaneously surrounded it with so much color and diverse shapes and materials. The pearl jewelry simply seemed incredibly fashionable, almost haute couture, a little wild, a little extravagant—and therefore very unexpected.

If I personally want to see truly unusual jewelry designs, I have to visit Vicenzaoro in Italy. Designers and manufacturers from all over the world come there. Labels from the Emirates, India, and China, in particular, outdo each other with extravagant, colorful high jewelry pieces that hardly anyone here would ever dare to wear. Let's be honest: There's something about that that just isn't "German." German women wear elegant jewelry, no doubt about it, but the earrings and necklaces are also welcome to catch the eye at second glance. Color is used sparingly and serves more as a small highlight than dominating the entire look.

If you go even further north, minimalist Scandinavian chic or “Danish design” dominates, which also dispenses with color and opulent forms.

Through discussions and exploratory tours at international trade fairs, a fairly clear picture has emerged. A glance at the collections on display is usually enough to immediately determine whether a particular brand or design will gain a foothold in our country, which isn't exactly known for passion or extravagant fashion. In conversations with brand representatives, this picture is generally confirmed.

A breath of fresh air for jewelry is blowing from Berlin

And then there's Ploch Pearls. The brand comes from Germany, or rather from Berlin, and simply has a bold yet fresh feel. Pearl jewelry is expected to have a more classic, almost monochrome look: white pearls or pearls with golden luster, and even Tahitian pearls, are joined by platinum, white gold, yellow gold, and white diamonds. Beautiful. Elegant. Classy. Timeless. All wonderful, but if you're looking for something more unusual and love pearls, the selection is rather limited.

And then there's Ploch Pearls. The brand claims on its website that pearls can't be reinvented. But pearl jewelry can – and in doing so, it casts the pearl in a whole new light. For me, the brand has somehow reinvented the pearl.

It's so incredibly versatile anyway. That's why I'm surprised I haven't seen more designs that try something a little different with pearls. I'm convinced it can handle it!

When you think of extravagant designs for millionaires in Dubai and India, pearls may be part of the whole ensemble, but the jewelry was not specifically designed around the pearl.

Pearls in the play of color and shapes

Ploch Pearls does exactly that. In addition to cultured freshwater pearls, they also use very expensive specimens like Akoya, South Sea, and Tahitian pearls – and then become the focus of truly extraordinary designs. Ploch Pearls mixes pearls with dyed fur in shades of pink or blue, hangs them on chunky chains wrapped in colored silk thread, and mixes the designs with colored gemstones in bold tones, creating a cool pop-art look. Yes, you might notice a little bit in Ploch Pearls' style that the brand comes from Berlin. Not everyone loves them, but at their core, there's something very creative. A little punk, a little rebellious, a little alternative.

I find it fascinating that this side of Berlin is reflected in fine jewelry designs. The pieces are surprisingly diverse, blending techniques that convey a unique character, as one would expect from one-of-a-kind pieces from a goldsmith—for example, the use of knitted gold mesh, which creates wonderful organic shapes and a unique play of light. Visually, for me, the jewelry, through its artistic form, brings the pearl back into its natural context. One is reminded that the pearl was born from the shell, surrounded by sand and waves. A beautiful image that imbues the jewelry with emotional significance.

And that's why I'm particularly pleased that this creative and innovative design, with its bold use of color and extravagance, comes from Germany, where you'd least expect it. Especially from an established, owner-managed brand with over 20 years of experience, which can also be found at goldsmiths and jewelers, rather than a small, independent label or goldsmith. And I believe the brand's style is at a level that even less daring jewelry fans can confidently approach. 

It also speaks volumes about the down-to-earth and approachable nature of the people behind the brand that I spent an hour and a half chatting at the booth and learning more about Ploch Pearls. I'm happy to share my opinion and experience with others.