The "Freak X" from Ulysse Nardin poses a problem for the masters of enamelling

The "Freak X" from Ulysse Nardin poses a problem for the masters of enamelling

Spoiler alert: The experienced craftsmen at Donzé Cadrans in Le Locle, Switzerland, have, of course, solved the problem brilliantly.

The result is called “Freak [X Gold Enamel]” and once again makes it clear that this extraordinary timepiece relies on sophisticated aesthetics not only in technical terms but also in terms of design.

A premiere for the “Freak”

This latest version combines the inherently unconventional look of the "Freak" with the tradition of enameling to create a harmonious whole. And this is a first, because for the first time, an enamel hour disc is being introduced into the core collection.

The “Freak” – the enfant terrible of watchmaking

Introduced in 2001, the "Freak" was a watch without hands, dial, or crown, adjusted via the bezel and wound via the caseback. It also marked the first time silicon was used in a movement, which is characterized by its durability and resistance to magnetism.

This innovative technology revolutionized the watch industry at the time and successfully challenged watch designers to be more daring. By comparison, the "Freak X" is practically a young thing.

“Freak X” – a new family member

This variant was released in 2019, is slimmer, has a smaller body and is therefore more portable than its older sister and also more affordable.

The only concession to the innovative “Freak” technology is that the X version has a crown for setting the time.

Otherwise, the "Freak X" is based on the same principles as the original "Freak." The entire movement rotates to display the time: the hours are indicated by a triangle on a rotating disc, while the movement itself completes a full rotation every hour to display the minutes.

This houses the automatic in-house caliber UN-230, also released in 2019, with a silicon escapement, hairspring, and balance. A synthesis of the UB-11 and the UN-250, it offers a 72-hour power reserve and oscillates at a leisurely 3 hertz. The so-called carousel rotates hourly, thus indicating the time.

Donzé Cadrans – the masters of enameling by Ulysse Nardin

The real novelty, then, is the materiality of the "Freak [X Gold Enamel]," limited to 120 pieces. And this is surprisingly elegant, with a rotating disc made of guilloché flinqué enamel with a sunbeam pattern, coated with several layers of blue enamel, forming the stylish backdrop for the circular path of the flying carousel.

One of these is the Donzé Cadrans enamel studio, founded in 1972 by master enameller Francis Donzé, which Ulysse Nardin acquired in 2011. However, the collaboration began in the 1980s.

Here, very close to the Ulysse Nardin manufactory, traditional techniques such as Grand Feu, Cloisonné, Champlevé and Guilloché-Flinqué are mastered.

With an annual production capacity of around 1,200 dials, the workshop supplies not only Ulysse Nardin, but also other renowned watch manufacturers and institutions that restore historical pieces.

Despite this extensive experience and expertise, the "Freak [X Gold Enamel]" presented a new challenge for Donzé Cadrans. The disc to be enameled, made of thermally very stable 22-carat rose gold, rotates and is an integral part of the movement itself: a functional and moving mechanical component equipped with multiple screw connections.

These elements make the enameling process even more complex, requiring exceptional precision and technical expertise. Donzé Cadrans is also constantly developing new color shades tailored to each timepiece.

The selection of suitable pigments is an iterative process, requiring a deep understanding of chemical reactivity and color theory. In the case of the "Freak [X Gold Enamel]," the color blue is in keeping with Ulysse Nardin's maritime heritage.

Each rotating disc is crafted one after the other, each taking a full workday—about eight hours—to complete. This gives each piece its own depth and tone.

(RRP €49,100)