That was my Vicenzaoro - Part 3: My favourite pieces of jewellery from the fair
When I visit trade fairs like Vicenzaoro, I'm especially excited to finally get up close and personal with the jewelry I otherwise often only see in glossy photos. Admiring it, touching it, feeling the quality, letting the light bring the diamonds and colored gemstones to life, asking deeper questions. Here are my favorite discoveries that gave me particular joy during the fair.
Touch and admire: rings by Fope. © Insight Luxury
Jewelry you have to experience
It's the oldest saying in the jewelry industry: Jewelry has to be experienced, touched, and tried on. I always realize how true this saying is whenever I attend a major trade fair like Vicenzaoro. What I particularly enjoy about it is that I arrive at the brands prepared. I know the collections, the materials, the techniques, but what I've usually only been able to experience from afar as a two-dimensional press photo finally comes to life and is, in the truest sense of the word, tangible.
This reveals so much more to me that remains hidden in simple images and can never be experienced: the true physicality of jewelry. The weight, the finishing of the surfaces, the stretchability of flex jewelry, the lightness of chains...
Only when you've had the opportunity to experience the jewelry in this way do you realize the quality behind it. At the same time, I'm surprised by the pieces I like when I explore them in person, pieces I might never have considered from a distance, like in a catalog. Therefore, today I'm presenting my personal favorites from my visit to Vicenzaoro and trying to capture what enchanted me about them.

Picchiotti: Discovering completely new sides of yourself
I confess that, as a woman, I can't stand some stereotypically feminine things. For example, I never had a pink phase as a child, and even today you'll only find one pink item in my closet – a blouse that, admittedly, is more old rose than bright Barbie pink. As luck would have it, I was wearing this very blouse on my first day at the trade fair, and at the booth of the Italian brand Picchiotti, I was presented with some flower-shaped jewelry with pink sapphires. The design is simply called "Flowers" and is still brand new.


Normally, I wouldn't have considered this jewelry for myself, but I thought it would definitely make a great photo with my blouse. And what can I say... I'm a fan! The colors and shapes of the jewelry had a freshness and lightness that felt instantly contagious. The feel-good effect was immediate; the smile in a posed photo became real. Wow.
This experience taught me that you should be bold with jewelry every now and then and think outside the box. Sometimes you're not even aware of what suits you or what aspects and facets of your personality wearing certain jewelry can evoke. It was a truly joyful moment for me.


Nanis: Sweet jewelry for the playful instinct
The "Reverse" collection from Nanis has been one of my favorites since its release a few years ago. What I've always particularly liked about it is the reversible design, which can be changed by simply turning the gemstone-encrusted ball, the "Nanis Boule." The technical aspect of the rotating hinge, which is easy to handle and clicks into place accordingly, is a clever piece of technology. The selection of designs, with colored gemstones on one and a playful pavé on the other, is extensive.

New this year is Nanis' launch of a mini version of the "Reverse" collection, called "Reverse Baby." The collection is now available in four sizes. The design and the mini version of the rings sparked my playful instincts when I tried them on. It's incredibly fun to flip the jewelry elements one way or the other, to combine the different styles, and even to match them with their older siblings. Baby sizes are now also available for other Nanis designs, opening up even more possibilities for fun mix-and-matching—one of the things about jewelry that's always fun.


A.Odenwald: Massive fun
The Dettinger booth and its A.Odenwald brand were a place where I spent a long time, because I simply had to feel and touch my way through the entire jewelry range. In their communication before the fair, Odenwald made it clear: No matter how the gold price develops, we will continue to manufacture our solid gold jewelry and will continue to use a lot of material.


This fact, which is an integral part of A.Odenwald's identity, is the reason why you want to touch the jewelry all the time and simply can't keep your hands off it. Haptics is the key word. The weight in the hand is as pleasant as the feel on the fingers; it feels smooth, high-quality, and at the same time somehow... reliable. The solid gold design gives me the good feeling that the jewelry is present and will go along with everything I have in mind. The unique shapes of the jewelry and the colors of sapphires in all their natural nuances do the rest to make it something special. That's why I can't name a single favorite, but I know for sure: Touching and playing with Odenwald jewelry, whether with the rotating rings, the ball pendants, or the necklaces, was a wonderful experience that can recharge the batteries in the midst of a stressful day at a trade fair.


Al Coro: Ancient grandeur and a piece of history
Every now and then, you come across a piece of jewelry that manages to envelop itself in a very special cloak of grandeur. Storytelling, of course, plays a large part in this. During my visit to Al Coro at the Vicenzaoro, I discovered my fascination with rings from the "La Piazza Roma" collection. The centerpiece of this line are ancient Roman coins, which Al Coro sources from a coin office—a true piece of history dating back to the 4th century, minted during the reign of Constantine the Great. As someone interested in history and who grew up near an ancient limes region, I'm simply delighted that such an idea exists in jewelry form. The contrast between the ancient, dark-patinated coin and the modern ring design in warm rose gold speaks a unique language and brings with it a special fascination. The use of small diamonds is the icing on the cake for a piece of luxury that harmonizes treasures of the earth and human history. Another little gimmick: The side view shows that the shape of the ring is modeled on the Colosseum in Rome.


Brusi: Jewelry that lets nature speak
The Milanese jewelry brand Brusi follows the "natural jewel" approach with its designs, where the design isn't the starting point; rather, the shape of the natural gemstones determines the design of the piece. I love organic jewelry! Soft shapes bring harmony and naturalness, which soothe my aesthetically inclined soul. It's like listening to classical music, only visually.
Brusi's jewelry showcases colored gemstones in an asymmetrical rose cut, selected with a keen sense of beauty and form. This is particularly evident in the rings, which I simply couldn't tear my eyes—and fingers—away from. It's also beautiful that Brusi manages to place colored gemstones like emeralds, rubies, and sapphires, often found only in the high jewelry ranges of many brands, into an affordable class of fine jewelry. (Prices for ruby or sapphire rings from the "Shapes" collection range from around €3,000 to €5,000.) Rubies then don't have the high purity, deep red color known as pigeon blood, but a cheerful pinkish red, where you can see the vibrancy of the inclusions. I think that's fantastic. This jewelry simply brings me joy and shows me that beauty exists in so many forms and that sometimes it only takes people with a special sense – in this case, Brusi's designer Andrea Codari – to share their personal discoveries with the world and open people's eyes to these forms of the special.


Cammilli Firenze: Breathtaking three-dimensionality
In the future, after the successful rebranding, I'll have to get used to calling this brand Cammilli Firenze instead of Annamaria Cammilli. However, as I was told at the trade fair, the presence of the eponymous designer always resonates. With that in mind, my deepest respect goes to Signora Cammilli, who has managed to translate her background in sculpture so clearly and fascinatingly into fine jewelry.

Their three-dimensional shapes and the specially patented "Aeterna" finish, which gives the jewelry its distinctive surface, create a vibrant and unique image that you can't get enough of. So organic, so beautiful, so fascinating, so multifaceted. Time stands still when you have the privilege of feeling your way through so many collections and designs, turning them over and over again, and constantly discovering a new, fascinating perspective. The variety of colors and shapes combined with precious colored gemstones is almost endless. Just thinking about it makes me want to sigh.


All in all, the fair was many things, but one thing in particular: simply beautiful!






