Geneva Watch Days 2025: Zenith x USM - The watch manufacturer and the furniture maker

Have you never heard of the furniture manufacturer USM? Perhaps. But you've probably seen the products of this traditional Swiss family business, founded in 1885, many times.

Reconfiguring and interpreting a classic – the Zenith watch manufacturer also excels in this discipline. Many reissues from its own past demonstrate the power of timeless designs.

What may seem surprising at first—the collaboration between a watchmaker and a furniture manufacturer—is actually quite logical. Especially since both companies stand for Swiss care, precision, and craftsmanship. Moreover, the 1960s were formative for both.

During this decade, USM created its famous modular furniture system, and Zenith created the legendary El Primero high-speed caliber and the Defy collection. And now, in the new "Defy Chronograph USM," it all comes together—in a modernized form, of course.

The original Defy from 1969, with its angular case, faceted contours, octagonal case, and fourteen-sided bezel, served as the basis for the fusion with the USM furniture aesthetic. Pump-style chronograph pushers underscore the trendy vintage look. The model is completed by the "ladder" bracelet, designed exclusively for Zenith by the Gay Frères manufacture in 1969.

Incidentally, the original Defy has never been interpreted as a chronograph, nor was it equipped with a high-frequency El Primero chronograph movement. Until now.

The 400 version, housed in a 37.3-millimeter stainless steel case water-resistant to 10 bar, oscillates at a brisk 5 Hz. The automatic column-wheel chronograph movement is equipped with a silicon escapement wheel and lever.

The El Primero 400 offers extensive functionality: hours, minutes, small seconds, central chronograph hand, 12-hour and 30-minute counters, and a date. The power reserve is 55 hours. It is visible through the sapphire crystal case back.

The dial features applied, square hour markers with horizontal grooves, but is particularly eye-catching due to the four USM colors of the Haller system: Green, Pure Orange, Golden Yellow, and Gentian Blue. Each of the four dial colors is limited to 60 pieces worldwide.

The rhodium-plated azure finish also subtly references the iconic USM handle. A further nod to furniture design can be found at the tip of the central chronograph hand in the form of a miniature of the signature USM ball joint, which, thanks to Superluminova, promises comfortable readability in the dark.

When the chronograph is activated, the Zenith star hidden beneath appears—a fine example of the narrative sophistication of this creation. Each of the four dial colors is limited to 60 pieces worldwide.

Benoit de Clerck, CEO of Zenith, commented: "This partnership combines the best of Swiss design and watchmaking, reflecting a shared appreciation for enduring, modern aesthetics. USM Haller's modular design, known for its functional beauty, reflects our own commitment to craftsmanship and precision."

Alexander Schärer, Managing Director & Chairman of the Board of USM, adds: "USM and Zenith were both founded as owner-managed workshops, embedded in the microcosm of Swiss craftsmanship. This shared heritage paved the way for our collaboration."

The watch is presented in a USM Haller watch box specially designed for this edition. (RRP €12,000)