"Lady Premier" by Breitling - inspired by the past, designed for the woman of today
Breitling has expanded its women's watch portfolio with the new "Lady Premier" collection. The creative mind behind it is Pablo Widmer. I had the great pleasure of having Breitling's Head of Product Design personally introduce the seven premiere models to me at the Geneva Watch Days.
Widmer isn't one of those people in the watch industry who have turned their childhood passion for timekeeping into a career. As a designer, he ended up there more or less by chance – and he's stayed.
During his studies, he was already more interested in accessories than in large-format products. A term paper then brought a watch into the design game – and this interest continues to this day.
Presumably, his professional approach to watches from the very beginning shaped his sophisticated view of design and prevented him from simply creating a timepiece that pleased him personally. Instead, it had to please the wearer and, of course, fulfill its function.
And so, in the design process, Widmer focuses on the essentials of the watch as a product. But the premises inherent in Breitling's philosophy of inclusive luxury and the brand's history also flow into his designs. He doesn't see this as a limitation to his creativity—quite the opposite.
"I actually find it very stimulating when there are certain specifications, for example regarding the technology and functionality of a watch, that you can't simply ignore when designing. You have to work intensively with them, but then such premises provide an inspiring framework for finding the best possible shape and color scheme," explains Widmer.
Breitling has a multifaceted history with a wide variety of models. And the brand often draws on timepieces from past decades to create its modern-retro style, either reissuing them or using them as a source of inspiration. Here, too, the chief designer sees this as a positive influence on the creative process rather than a limiting factor.
"This sets the direction the design should take. I can generate an incredible number of ideas from this, which is a real advantage for creative work. To do this, I first look very closely at the original watch, every little detail. And then I imagine what would happen if one of these details were missing. Then you quickly recognize which elements define the watch's unique look and which you simply cannot do without in a reinterpretation. Then it's time to modernize these elements and transfer them into the here and now."
“Lady Premier” by Breitling – Seven at a stroke
The latest result of this creative process is the new "Lady Premier" ladies' watch collection. It, too, is based on a previously existing model: the "Premier Fantaisies" from the 1940s.
It was part of the "Premier" collection, with which Willy Breitling wanted to bring elegance and beauty back to people's wrists after the end of World War II, rather than pure functionality. The "Fantaisies" versions differed in design details on the dial, hands, or other decorative elements. Overall, they appeared more playful and imaginative. This is likely what gave them their name.
The modern versions from the creative pen of Pablo Widmer are characterized by their sculptural silhouettes, the elliptical case, the radiant colors, the diamond setting and the detailed bracelets.
"Our trademark is modern retro style. We started with an archival design that evoked emotions and transformed it into something distinctively contemporary through updated curves, finishes, and color tones," explains Pablo Widmer.
“Lady Premier is a reinterpretation of the elegant watch that is confident, feminine and full of character, just like the woman who wears it,” adds Georges Kern, CEO of Breitling.
“Lady Premier” in 36 millimeters with mechanism
The 36-millimeter automatic models made of stainless steel feature rich dial colors and matching alligator leather straps in aubergine, sage, and dove gray gradients.
Another version, crafted from responsibly sourced 18-karat gold, is paired with a chocolate-colored gradient leather strap. Two models are also set with lab-cut diamonds.
The watches, which are water-resistant to ten bar, house the COSC-certified Breitling Caliber 10 with a 42-hour power reserve.
(RRP 5,350, 8,900 euros and 16,000 euros respectively)
“Lady Premier” in 32 millimeters with SuperQuartz
The 32-millimeter stainless steel versions are also water-resistant to 10 bar and feature dials in ink blue, mother-of-pearl, and midnight black. They are fitted with a new tapered, seven-row chevron bracelet, whose V-shaped pattern adds a feminine touch to the more streamlined men's "Premier" bracelet.
Inside, the COSC-certified Breitling Caliber 77 SuperQuartz movement ensures uncomplicated precision. Its built-in sensors and electronics compensate for temperature fluctuations that would otherwise affect the accuracy of a conventional quartz movement.
(RRP €4,800 or €7,200)
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