Jacob & Co. Unveils a New Diamond Cut – the “Angel Cut”
To mark the brand’s 40th anniversary, Jacob & Co. is introducing the Angel Cut, its own patented diamond cut—deliberately choosing not to rely on variations of existing shapes, but rather on a new interpretation of how light plays within the stone.
A touch of creativity
The focus is less on making an aesthetic statement and more on a technical approach. The Angel Cut was developed to offer a new solution to a well-known challenge in gemology: extracting rectangular stones from the rough material as efficiently as possible without compromising on brilliance and light reflection.
Its significance is also reflected in its structure: the Angel Cut features 37 precisely engineered facets—a number that pays homage to Jacob and Angela’s 37 years of marriage. In this way, the cut serves both as a technical innovation and as a symbol of their bond, translated into geometry.
Rather than increasing the number of facets, the cut is based on a precisely calculated geometry. The 37 facets are arranged in such a way that light is directed precisely and reflected in a controlled manner within the stone. A striking feature is the diamond-shaped table, set within a rectangular base with beveled corners.
The result is visibly different from traditional cuts: the light appears less concentrated or high-contrast, but rather more evenly distributed. The brilliance appears softer, almost flowing, while still maintaining great depth.
Between the step cut and the brilliant cut
Traditionally, two principles have been at odds:
brilliant cuts maximize light yield but often result in significant material loss. Step cuts, such as the baguette or emerald cut, retain more carat weight but appear less dazzling.
The Angel Cut aims to combine both approaches. It makes efficient use of the geometry of rectangular rough stones while achieving significantly greater light output. This advantage is particularly evident in complex settings—such as in deeply recessed watch cases—as the cut maintains a stable appearance even when light exposure is limited.
First use in a watch
The cut makes its debut in the Billionaire Double Tourbillon. The watch is entirely set with angel-cut diamonds, totaling approximately 79 carats, distributed across the case and dial.
The cut is not merely decorative; it shapes the watch’s overall visual impact. The even distribution of light enhances the clear, symmetrical design—particularly in conjunction with the two tourbillons, which mechanically counterbalance the static geometry of the gemstones.
The 54 x 41 mm white gold case is set with 98 angel-cut diamonds totaling 51.13 carats—including numerous exceptionally large stones, the kind typically used as center solitaires.
The dial continues this seamless play of light with an additional 88 angel-cut and baguette diamonds, which symmetrically and brilliantly frame the two tourbillon openings.
In total, the watch is set with 298 white diamonds weighing a combined total of approximately 79 carats. Beneath this dazzling surface lies the hand-wound JCAM50 caliber, a movement comprising 460 components and featuring two flying tourbillons at 12 and 6 o’clock.
The name of the watch gives you an idea of its price range: it’s available for $3.4 million.
https://jacobandco.com
