Watch News Briefing: From Dalí to Samurai—Four Extraordinary Timepieces
From surrealist works of art to sustainable concepts and spectacular collector’s items: These four new releases demonstrate just how many different ways there are to interpret modern watchmaking.
In this watch news roundup, we present an overview of the models from Exaequeo, ID Genève, MB&F, and Roger Dubuis, along with their technical specifications.
(left: MB&F: Horological Machine No. 12)
Tie: Salvador Dalí, *Le Minuscule*
Exaequo was founded in Switzerland in the late 1980s and launched the Softwatch—also known as the Melting Watch—in 1990. Its asymmetrical, seemingly “melting” case was inspired by Dalí’s famous 1931 painting “The Persistence of Memory.” After a long hiatus, Exaequo disappeared from the market and was revived in 2024. In 2026, an official long-term partnership began with the Fundació Gala-Salvador Dalí, the foundation that currently manages the intellectual property and trademark rights to Dalí’s work. As a result, Exaequo watches are now officially permitted to bear the name Salvador Dalí and use his visual language and signature. The seven models in the latest “Le Minuscule” collection consist of three stainless steel models and four versions made of yellow gold-colored PVD-coated stainless steel. exaequo-official.com
Model: Salvador Dali Le Minuscule
Movement: Ronda 751, quartz
Functions: Hours, Minutes
Case: Stainless steel or PVD-coated stainless steel, 26 x 40.5 x 9.5 mm, water-resistant to 3 bar
Dial: White, black, green, blue, gold
Strap: Leather, stainless steel buckle
Special feature: limited to 329, 888, and 1,931 units, respectively
MSRP: €750 or €780
ID Genève: Circular – Is It Choco-Too-Late?
The “Is it Choco-Too-Late?” campaign is part of Climate Basecamp’s international climate initiative “Save the Flavors.” In collaboration with the Geneva-based watch brand ID Genève and the Swiss ice cream maker Paleta Loca, the campaign aims to raise awareness of the consequences of climate change for food—particularly for cocoa and, consequently, for chocolate. ID Genève has developed a limited-edition watch called “Circular – Is it Choco-Too-Late?” The design of the watch reflects the theme with a dial whose hammered surface evokes slowly melting chocolate. Ten percent of the proceeds from sales will go to Climate Basecamp projects. The ice cream maker Paleta Loca is also launching special chocolate ice cream editions. Each serving contains a QR code. Anyone who scans it enters a raffle to win one of the limited-edition ID Genève watches. At the same time, the campaign raises awareness about the effects of climate change on cocoa. A portion of the proceeds from ice cream sales also supports the campaign. idwatch.ch
Model: Circular – Is It Choco-Too-Late?
Movement: ETA 2824, automatic, 38-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, central seconds, date
Case: Stainless steel (100% recycled), 41 x 9.65 mm, water-resistant to 5 bar
Dial: Brown, hand-hammered finish, faceted, diamond-polished, colored SLN hour markers, inner bezel with a color gradient in purple, yellow, and orange
Bracelet: recycled corn scraps or recycled stainless steel; pin buckle or folding clasp
Special feature: limited edition, part of the “Is it Choco-Too-Late?” campaign
MSRP: €5,200, €5,460, or €6,120
MB&F;: Horological Machine No. 12
The “HM12 ‘The Guardian’” builds on the science-fiction atmosphere of MB&F’s earlier Horological Machines. It is part of a mechanical duo consisting of the highly complex “HM12” wristwatch and the “The Guardian” robot. This is an imposing robot, 38 centimeters tall, weighing 15 kilograms, and constructed from 755 components, featuring a mechanical thermometer and integrated tools. The “HM12” forms the robot’s head, with its dial serving as its face. The time display becomes the eyes. The jumping hour on the left and the running minute on the right are read at a fixed position, while the information continues to move on rotating discs. Together, the watch and robot consist of nearly 1,500 components. A total of only three limited editions—in green, blue, and violet—will be produced, with twelve pieces each. mbandf.com
Model: Horological Machine No. 12
Movement: In-house caliber, automatic, 84-hour power reserve
Functions: Flying tourbillon, jumping hours, running minutes, 84-hour power reserve
Case: Titanium, 49.3 x 43.6 x 13.8 mm, movable lugs at 12 o’clock, fixed lugs at 6 o’clock
Wristband: Fabric strap with Velcro closure
Special feature: The clock forms the head of the robot figure “The Guardian,” crafted by L’Epée in 1839.
MSRP: 280,000 CHF (plus VAT)
Roger Dubuis: RDDBEX1139 – Excalibur The Kabuto Legacy
With the “Excalibur The Kabuto Legacy,” Roger Dubuis draws inspiration from a historic turning point in 17th-century Japan. The watch commemorates the beginning of an era of peace and prosperity that lasted more than 250 years. Its design interprets the cultural symbols of that era: Edo Castle and twelve samurai commanders, represented by their kabuto and kamon—the helmets and crests of the bushō. rogerdubuis.com
Model: RDDBEX1139 – Excalibur: The Kabuto Legacy
Movement: RD821, automatic, 48-hour power reserve, 14 different finishes
Functions: Hours, Minutes
Case: Rose gold, 45 x 16.87 mm, water-resistant to 3 bar
Dial: The castle is composed of 17 elements, enhanced with four different decorative techniques
Strap: Leather, rose gold folding clasp, quick-release system
Special feature: limited to 28 copies
MSRP: Upon request
