Time to Watches 2026: The Art of Complication

The development of new and complex mechanisms is time-consuming and costly. And yet, it is often small, independent brands that bring such innovations to life or know how to use novel calibres in particularly creative ways. They are agile, they know their market – and they are willing to take risks.

At Time to Watches, there are several such timepieces on display – creations that attract collectors and often prove inspiring even for the major names in the industry.

The small brand Fears was founded in Bristol nearly 180 years ago and, following its revival in 2016, is once again based there today, led by a descendant of the founder. The design of many Fears watches is traditional, though never museum-like. Alongside slim tonneau-shaped cases, one of the maison’s specialties is the “Brunswick” line with jumping hour display. Design and assembly take place in the United Kingdom, while the base movement comes from Christopher Ward production in Switzerland, where brands such as MeisterSinger also source movements for models like the Salthora. The calibre has established itself thanks to the precision and speed of its jumping mechanism. Fears gives its watches such a distinctive character that their technical kinship with other brands is barely noticeable.

A Six-Minute Tourbillon and an Indication of Daylight Length

The “Maximus” by Kerbedanz was developed largely in-house. As its name suggests, it is a world record. Central tourbillons – which are significantly more challenging to construct than the conventional placement at 6 o’clock – have caused a stir in recent years, including at certain brands showing at Watches and Wonders. Yet the “Maximus” features the world’s largest wristwatch tourbillon rotating at the centre of the movement. In keeping with its prominence, it takes six minutes to complete one majestic rotation – a unique feat, limited to just 99 pieces.

Equally unusual are the time displays developed by Krayon, a brand that specialises in mechanisms that are both technically sophisticated and intuitively legible – an aspect that is especially important to the maison. The “Anyday” model offers an overview of all dates and weekdays of the current month, making time easier to plan.

The “Anywhere” is one of the very few mechanical watches capable of displaying the changing times of sunrise and sunset. This is achieved through moving segments, which also indicate the relationship between day and night. Once the “Anywhere” has been set to the owner’s home or favourite location, the flagship model, the “Everywhere,” allows the wearer to see at a glance – even while travelling – how much time remains until dusk or dawn.