Skeleton clocks: Insights and perspectives from Arnold & Son, Bianchet, Louis Moinet and MB&F

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Skeleton clocks: Insights and perspectives from Arnold & Son, Bianchet, Louis Moinet and MB&F

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The watch industry - especially the Swiss - likes to be secretive. Information about production volumes and who produces which components for whom is often kept to themselves.

Transparency, on the other hand, is still a favourite feature of the watches themselves. Skeletonisations can be seen everywhere - or rather through them. Some take transparency to the extreme with sapphire crystal cases.

What looks like a fascinating insight into the internal workings of the mechanical inner workings and appears light and airy and, at best, elaborately decorated, is actually a craft of the highest order. Removing as much material as possible from the movement and dial without compromising its stability and functionality is a fine art in itself.

This requires patience, manual dexterity and/or precise CNC machines and, above all, watchmaking expertise. For a successful end result, cut-outs on different levels must be positioned exactly on top of each other so that they are not covered by any remaining material.

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Arnold & Son - "Nebula 40 Steel Blue Edition"

The name Nebula is a reference to the huge clouds of gas and dust in outer space. It is reflected in the identity-forming, perforated and angled seven bridges. They are arranged in a star shape around the calibre at regular intervals and, although they have an identical shape, they vary in size depending on their function.

Aligned in a beam shape towards the centre, they give the "Nebula 40 Steel" structural stability, while at the same time serving as additional fixed points for the components of the movement.

Following the introduction of the "Nebula 40 Steel" in black and a golden anniversary edition to mark 260 years of John Arnold's traditional history, a blue colour has now been added to the versions of this skeletonised watch.

The back of the watch reveals further details such as the inverted crown mechanism, which forms a symmetrical counterpart to the centre wheel, or the "Rayons de la Gloire" cut.

• Movement: A&S5201 (manual winding)
• Power reserve: 90 hours
• Materials: Stainless steel, blue PVD coating, 18-carat gold chatons, rhodium-plated appliqués, sapphire crystal
• Housing dimensions: 40×9.1 mm
• Watertightness: 3 bar
• Bracelet: Stainless steel, blue alligator leather or blue rubber with stainless steel buckle
• RRP: 18.800-19.800 €

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Bianchet - "UltraFino"

A tennis match in the Roland Garros stadium in Paris? Shocks of over 5,000 g. That's no problem for the "UlraFino", promises Bianchet. And the timepiece also offers a flying tourbillon and an extra-flat format of less than four millimetres - and plenty of visibility.

The brand's latest movement, the UT01, ensures drive and precision. Bianchet brand ambassador Alexander Bublik put it to the test. The tennis pro has worn the "UltraFino" at all his tournaments over the past two months, including his last quarter-final match at the French Open.

The watch certainly doesn't add any extra weight. This is because the titanium movement with a central gold rotor measuring 3.85 millimetres in height weighs just eight grams and absorbs shocks of over 5,000 grams. For comparison: one g is the acceleration we feel due to gravity.

Miniaturisation alone was not enough to realise the watchmaking requirements in such a flat form. Bianchet redesigned each component to maintain torque, amplitude, autonomy and reliability without compromising the essence of the tourbillon and its appearance.

The UT01 calibre achieves its performance through a series of technical solutions: a floating barrel by eliminating the ratchet wheel, a redesigned tourbillon and a redesigned escapement with a large screw balance, a customised, friction-reduced winding and adjustment architecture and an advanced shock protection system.

The result is a movement that retains its precision despite the highest loads. "If it can withstand Bublik's backhand, it can withstand anything," emphasises Bianchet.

The architecture of the UT01 is based on the legendary golden ratio. Its gold rotor consists of twelve intertwined Fibonacci spirals, while the rear bridges form concentric golden circles that support the flywheel mass and absorb shocks. Hand-cut titanium bridges and contrasting textures are added.

Thanks to the elaborate skeletonisation, the technical aesthetics of the "UltraFino" and its UT01 can be admired in great detail on the front and back of the watch. The watch is available in different versions.

• Movement: UT01 (automatic winding)
• Power reserve: 60 hours
• Materials: Carbon, titanium, sapphire crystal
• Housing dimensions: 40×47.39×8.9 mm
• Watertightness: 5 bar
• Bracelet: Carbon, titanium or rubber
• RRP: (60,500-65,500 CHF)

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MB&F - "SP One"

It was originally called "Three Circles". And if you look at - and at the same time through - this watch, it comes as no surprise. Because it showcases three floating elements: the barrel, the balance and the dial appear to defy the laws of gravity - as seen through the dome-shaped sapphire crystal. Strictly speaking, this is not a skeleton watch, but its insights and vistas grant it a place among the ticking masters of omission.

The "crystal clear", lightweight design of the "SP One" is supported by the pebble-shaped, bezel-free 38-millimetre case. At the same time, as MB&F's smallest and thinnest watch, it retains the brand's characteristic three-dimensional architecture. The only thing that is somewhat unclear is the family affiliation. It is positioned between the radical "Horogical Machines" and the more classic "Legacy Machines" and, as "SP One", forms the basis of the new, indefinable "Special Projects" collection.

The centrepiece of the "SP One" - the movement - is built around the three key elements of every mechanical watch: Barrel, balance wheel and dial. Each component is not only clearly visible, but has been designed to give the impression that it is floating in mid-air.

Thanks to the sapphire crystal on the front and back of the watch, it looks as if these elements are defying the force of gravity. However, it is the well thought-out architecture of the movement that creates this fascinating floating effect.

Most of the components are cleverly hidden behind the three key elements so that their aesthetics take centre stage. The fewer bridges, screws and wheels, the better.

Surrounding this movement is what Max Büsser (owner and creative director of MB&F) jokingly calls "the amphitheatre": a square ring of heights that radiates the grandeur of Greco-Roman theatres and, like a gladiator in the arena, emphasises the complexity of the movement.

If you turn the SP One over, you can discover the other side of the arena: it shows the meticulous finishing by hand and the attention to detail that is typical of MB&F. All wheels are bevelled by hand. All wheels are bevelled by hand, distinctive chatons are used and satin-finished, polished and micro-blasted surfaces create a balanced overall appearance.

• Movement: In-house calibre (manual winding)
• Power reserve: 72 hours
• Materials: Platinum, rose gold, sapphire crystal
• Housing dimensions: 38×12 mm
• Watertightness: 3 bar
• Bracelet: Calfskin with pin buckle in white or rose gold
• RRP: 63,000 CHF

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Louis Moinet - "Time to Race"

"The history of motor racing has produced countless legends. This year, I would like to honour two new creations: the 'Rush' in intense metallic blue and the 'White Fuji' in bright white with red accents. Both watches are based on the same principle: a colour code, a lucky number, a unique piece," explains Jean-Marie Schaller, CEO & Creative Director of Louis Moinet.

This means that every buyer can choose their own personal single-digit or two-digit lucky number, which appears on the front of the watch, together with a special colour code that is reminiscent of the racing histories in the various countries. These colours have been specially chosen because they represent the most legendary cars in motorsport. To ensure clearer vehicle identification, national colours were assigned in motorsport until the end of the 1960s. This tradition is still present in the collective memory of the motorsport community today.

Both "Time to Race" chronographs display the chosen "lucky number" prominently on a white lacquered background at 6 o'clock - the counterpart to the starting numbers at a racing event. This lacquered disc also serves as the dial for the hours and minutes.

Thanks to the grade 5 titanium used for the 18-gram case, the two stoppers are real lightweights. It is spanned by a sapphire crystal dome weighing 15 grams. This allows an unclouded view of the inner workings, which also carry little weight thanks to the skeletonisation.

The bezel combines a tachymeter scale with a 60-second display. It surrounds a dial also made of lightweight carbon fibre and highlights the chronograph mechanism. This can be triggered with a monopusher.

• Movement: Automatic calibre LM96
• Power reserve: 48 hours
• Materials: Titanium, carbon
• Housing dimensions: 40.7 mm
• Watertightness: 5 bar
• Bracelet: Rubber
• RRP: on request