Watches & Wonders 2026: Can this go? Skeleton Watches – Hermès, Corum, Cartier, and Zenith Embrace Minimalism

“Can this be removed?” This is a question watchmakers must ask themselves time and again when skeletonizing a movement. Stripping a mechanical movement of all unnecessary parts until only a few essential components remain—and the inner workings can be observed all the more clearly—is not merely a matter of knowledge of materials and mathematics, as well as manual dexterity.

To ensure that all this effort pays off, an aesthetic concept is essential. At Watches & Wonders, there were many excellent examples of skeleton watches.

Hermès: H08 Skeleton

The most thorough approach is to consider the possibility of a skeletonized version right from the design phase of a new timepiece. The geometry of the structural components can then be arranged so that—stripped of all unnecessary elements—they form an emblem or draw the eye to the inner workings.

That may well have been the case with Hermès’ “H08 Squelette.” The dial, reduced to free-hanging numerals and a minute track, offers a view of the key components of the H 1978S automatic movement through narrow bridges. The titanium case, dial, and hands are coated in matte black DLC, contrasting with the luminous material and/or the colored rubber straps.

Corum: Golden Bridge

The movement of the “Golden Bridge” was never intended to be hidden behind a dial, but rather to stand freely within the watch case, where it could be admired from all sides. In 1980, when this special model—which had previously been available only as a table clock—was introduced, the tonneau-shaped case featured sapphire windows on all four sides, set within a gold frame.

After a few quiet years under new ownership and now back in action as a trade show exhibitor, Corum is showcasing its classic model in its latest incarnation: featuring a solid sapphire case in various color combinations, as well as a fully transparent version. You can’t get any more skeletonized than this.

Corum offers the “Golden Bridge” in two versions: one with a robust tonneau case and a slimmer version for women. The large sapphire version is also available with the remarkable automatic rod movement, in which a linearly moving weight generates energy. It’s not quite as classic, but it offers even more to see—no matter which side you look at it from.

Cartier: Cartier Privé Crash

In its Privé collections, Cartier pays tribute each year to watches that have played a special role in its history, reviving them with the finest craftsmanship. The “Crash,” introduced in 1967, not only captured the spirit of Swinging London but also demonstrated just how disruptive the brand can be.

For its return in a skeletonized version, a hand-wound movement was developed featuring bridges shaped like numerals, giving the impression that the watch has been distorted by a forceful press on the crown. With its platinum case, the watch is limited to 150 pieces.

Zenith: Chronomaster Sport Skeleton

Classic skeletonization is essential when working with traditional movements that are designed primarily to function reliably between the dial and the solid caseback, rather than to look particularly striking. Zenith must follow this approach as well when the manufacture seeks to offer a glimpse into its legendary “El Primero” chronograph caliber and its successors. “Chronomaster Sport” is the name of the collection that carries on this legacy—with the “El Primero 3000” movement.

Zenith also notes that the primary focus of the skeletonization project was to preserve the integrity and precision of the movement. Nevertheless, a way was found to retain key elements such as the overlapping totalizers and to reveal the mechanism behind them—not as a museum piece, but complete with modern improvements such as a seconds stop and a silicon escape wheel.

Modern materials also complement the traditional designs on the outside: all four models feature a ceramic bezel. Three have a stainless steel case, while the fourth is made of rose gold. In addition, there are ten pieces with a gold bracelet set with diamonds, which may even outshine the skeletonized movement. (MSRP: €16,500, €31,200, and €111,400)