Watch-News Briefing: From the Deep Sea to a Second Time Zone and the Allure of V12 Engines
From professional diving watches and practical travel companions to spectacular concept watches with motorsport DNA: the latest releases impressively demonstrate the many different ways modern watchmaking can be interpreted today. What they all have in common is their commitment to combining technical functionality with a distinct design identity.
TAG Heuer brings a V12 to your wrist
The most spectacular debut of the week, however, came from TAG Heuer. With the Monaco Speed 12, limited to just 50 pieces, the brand has transformed the allure of a twelve-cylinder engine into an extraordinary hour display.
Twelve rotating discs circle the dial and, in conjunction with the central minute hand, indicate the current hour. The watch is based on a Spin-Time concept developed by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, which has been reinterpreted for the Monaco Speed 12.
The square case, crafted from Grade 5 titanium, remains true to the iconic Monaco, while the open dial and mechanical display are reminiscent of a high-performance engine. The watch was fittingly unveiled in the context of the Monaco Formula 1 Grand Prix—the very place with which the Monaco has been closely associated for decades.
Seiko Prospex Celebrates Two Anniversaries Underwater
With the new Prospex PADI 60th & Seiko 10th Anniversary Partnership Limited Edition, Seiko is celebrating two milestones at once: PADI’s 60th anniversary and ten years of partnership between the world’s largest scuba diving training organization and Seiko Prospex.
Prospex PADI 60th & Seiko 10th Anniversary Partnership Limited Edition
This special edition, limited to 8,000 pieces, is based on the popular “Turtle,” which has been one of the brand’s most iconic dive watches for years. Blue and red accents echo the colors of PADI, while a newly developed blue ceramic bezel underscores the connection to the underwater world.
With 200 meters of water resistance, a screw-down crown, LumiBrite luminescent material, and the proven 4R36 automatic movement, the watch remains true to its professional roots. At the same time, it serves as a reminder of how closely the history of modern dive watches is linked to the development of recreational diving.
Favre Leuba is expanding the Deep Raider collection with a Day-Date version
While many brands focus on increasingly complex complications, Favre Leuba concentrates on what is actually relevant in everyday life. The new Deep Raider Day Date adds a day-of-the-week and date display to the diver’s watch collection, making the Deep Raider even more versatile.
Particularly striking are the new gradient dials, which are available in blue, green, burgundy, or salmon and fade to black toward the bottom half. The color gradient evokes sunrises and sunsets and lends this otherwise rugged diver’s watch a surprisingly elegant touch.
Favre Leuba: Deep Raider Day-Date
With a 40-millimeter diameter, 30 ATM water resistance, a ceramic bezel, and an automatic movement based on the Sellita SW220-1, the watch remains true to its sporty roots. At the same time, Favre Leuba demonstrates how classic tool watches can be carefully evolved to suit everyday wear.
Bruno Söhnle embraces cosmopolitan elegance
Functionality is also a key focus at Bruno Söhnle—though from a different perspective. The new Brunello GMT is designed for frequent travelers and anyone who regularly moves between different time zones.
The new model continues the well-known Brunello line, combining a slim 41-millimeter case with an additional GMT display at 6 o’clock and the brand’s signature large date at 12 o’clock. The price is particularly noteworthy: starting at just 750 euros, Bruno Söhnle offers a second time zone and the elaborate Glashütte finishing of its quartz movement.
The Brunello GMT thus demonstrates once again that high-quality watchmaking from Glashütte does not necessarily have to be mechanical. Rather, the brand consistently follows its own path, balancing precision, functionality, and Saxon craftsmanship.
Bruno Söhnle: Brunello GMT
Three Ways to Interpret Technical Watchmaking
This week’s new releases impressively demonstrate how differently modern watch brands interpret technical functions. Seiko celebrates the world of diving, Favre Leuba focuses on everyday practicality, and Bruno Söhnle on travel and practical time zone functions. TAG Heuer, meanwhile, proves that watchmaking can still surprise and inspire today—if it has the courage to completely rethink technical ideas.
