DOXA SUB Army 200T for Hodinkee: Military History in a 39-Millimeter Format
DOXA and Hodinkee have scaled down a military-style diver’s watch to contemporary proportions. The SUB Army 200T Limited Edition measures 39 millimeters, features a deliberately unfinished stainless steel case, and is limited to 250 pieces worldwide.
The SUB Army in a compact form
The SUB Army, which was developed in the late 1960s for specialized military diving units, serves as the starting point. Rather than reproducing the historic watch in minute detail, the collaboration utilizes DOXA’s smaller 200T architecture: 39 millimeters in diameter, 41.5 millimeters in length across the lugs, and 10.7 millimeters in thickness.
The 316L stainless steel case features a deliberately functional, untreated finish. A sand-colored textured dial, gray checkerboard details, and an anodized aluminum bezel in “Hodinkee Grey” keep the design understated. Old Radium Super-LumiNova adds a historical touch without turning the watch into a mere reissue.
Tool Watch: A Collector’s Perspective
The unidirectional rotating bezel features a 60-minute countdown scale. Sapphire crystal and 200-meter water resistance provide the practical foundation. DOXA has omitted a helium valve. This complements the flatter case and makes it clear that this special edition is aimed at collectors at least as much as it is at professional divers.
- Case: 316L stainless steel, untreated finish
- Dimensions: 39 × 41.5 millimeters; 10.7 millimeters high
- Glass: Sapphire glass
- Water resistance: 200 meters
- Movement: Swiss automatic movement, 4 hertz, 38-hour power reserve
- Straps: taupe-colored rubber strap and gray NATO strap
- Limited edition: 250 copies
Exclusivity as Part of the Concept
The DOXA is not just a limited-edition color variant, but a special model for retailers. Hodinkee brings in the editorially curated collector audience, while Watches of Switzerland handles distribution. For DOXA, this creates a format that combines historical references, collector appeal, and a clearly defined design concept. Such collaborations generate buzz and enable unusual configurations. At the same time, they limit availability.
Conclusion
The most significant change is the case size. With a diameter of 39 millimeters and a height of 10.7 millimeters, the SUB Army is more wearable without losing its military-inspired identity. A sand-colored dial, gray bezel, unfinished steel case, and Old Radium luminous material keep the watch true to its historical roots—but in a form that fits much better into the present.
Price and Availability
The DOXA SUB Army 200T for Hodinkee costs $2,000 and is limited to 250 pieces. It is being sold as part of the retail partnership between Hodinkee and Watches of Switzerland. As of this writing, a separate allocation or a price in euros for Germany, Austria, and Switzerland had not been confirmed.
