EBEL: The iconic brand is taking on a new direction
The Movado Group is selling 95 percent of the Swiss watch brand EBEL to a group of investors led by F.P. Journe and Chanel. Pierre Jacques, an experienced industry executive, will take the helm. This opens up the possibility of a new strategic direction for the long-established brand, which has maintained its significance in the Swiss watch market to this day.
After more than two decades under the umbrella of the American Movado Group, EBEL is set to change ownership. On October 8, 2026, the group announced that it had entered into a binding agreement to sell 95 percent of the brand for $66.5 million. The buyer is a group of investors led by Geneva-based Montres Journe SA, the company behind the independent watch manufacturer F.P. Journe. Also involved are the French luxury house Chanel and Swiss watch executive Pierre Jacques.
The Movado Group will retain a five percent minority stake. The transaction is expected to close in the coming months.
The new ownership structure combines independent haute horlogerie, international luxury brand management, and many years of experience in developing watch brands. This combination could prove significant for EBEL’s future positioning.
A brand with its own distinct identity
EBEL was founded in 1911 in La Chaux-de-Fonds by Eugène Blum and Alice Lévy. The brand name is derived from the initials of Eugène Blum and Lévy.
EBEL was one of Switzerland’s leading international watch brands, particularly in the 1980s and 1990s. The Sport Classic, with its distinctive wave-patterned bracelet and visible screws on the bezel, became a design icon. The 1911 and Beluga collections also shaped the brand’s design identity.
Following its acquisition by LVMH in 1999 and its transition to the Movado Group in 2004, its market position changed. EBEL no longer garnered the international attention it had enjoyed during its most successful years, but it remained an established brand with a distinctive collection and a loyal customer base.
The Sport Classic, in particular, remains of great importance. In an INSIGHT-LUXURY interview conducted during INHORGENTA 2026, EBEL President Flavio Pellegrini explained that the collection accounts for nearly 70 percent of sales. Specialty retailers also remain a key distribution channel. EBEL operates only three of its own boutiques and works primarily with independent jewelers.
The change in ownership should therefore be viewed less as a revival of a defunct brand and more as an opportunity to further develop an existing brand identity under new strategic conditions.
F.P. Journe, Chanel, and Pierre Jacques: A Unique Combination
The acquisition is led by Montres Journe SA, the Geneva-based watchmaker founded in 1999 by François-Paul Journe. F.P. Journe has carved out a special place for itself within the independent Swiss watchmaking industry through technically sophisticated mechanical watches, a unique product philosophy, and an exclusive market positioning.
Chanel, one of the world’s leading luxury brands, is also a shareholder. The company has held a 20 percent stake in Montres Journe SA since 2018. The exact breakdown of ownership within the new EBEL ownership group has not yet been disclosed.
Pierre Jacques is set to take charge of day-to-day operations. The experienced manager previously served as CEO of the Swiss watchmaker De Bethune and has many years of experience in the international luxury watch market.
His appointment underscores the commitment to actively further developing EBEL. This brings together a variety of skills: F.P. Journe’s watchmaking expertise, Chanel’s experience in luxury brand management, and Jacques’ knowledge of the positioning and distribution of independent watch brands.
Chanel has been building a network in the watch industry for years
Chanel’s investment in EBEL is part of a long-term strategy the company has been pursuing for several decades.
In addition to its own watch collections, including the Première and the J12, the company has systematically invested in Swiss watchmakers and specialized suppliers.
As early as 1993, Chanel acquired the Swiss manufacturer G&F Châtelain in La Chaux-de-Fonds, which produces cases, bracelets, and other components, among other things.
This was followed by investments in Bell & Ross (1998), the independent watchmaker Romain Gauthier (2011), and F.P. Journe (2018). In 2024, Chanel also acquired a 25 percent stake in the independent haute horlogerie brand MB&F. More recent investments also include Kross Studio and Kross Manufacture.
Chanel has also strengthened its position in the industrial sector. The company holds a stake in the Swiss watch movement manufacturer Kenissi, which, among other things, develops and produces calibers for Tudor and other watch brands. In addition, it owns Inmatec, a specialist in ceramic materials.
What is noteworthy here is the approach: Chanel has not, to date, sought to integrate the participating brands into a centrally managed watchmaking group. Rather, the company supports independent manufacturers while securing access to watchmaking expertise, manufacturing capacity, and specialized technologies.
The EBEL transaction fits into this network, although the brand’s history, existing collections, and international distribution structure give it a different starting point than many of the previous investments.
Movado is focusing on its core business
For the Movado Group, the sale represents a strategic portfolio realignment.
The publicly traded American company focuses on accessible luxury as well as fashion watches and jewelry. In addition to its own brands—Movado, MVMT, and Olivia Burton—its portfolio includes numerous licensed brands, such as Hugo Boss, Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein, and Lacoste.
These business models differ from the positioning of a long-established Swiss watch brand such as EBEL. In the licensing business, brand awareness, international distribution, and scalable product lines are the main priorities. Developing an independent Swiss luxury watch brand, on the other hand, requires a different set of priorities.
The sale will enable Movado to focus its resources more closely on its core strategic areas. At the same time, EBEL will gain an ownership structure whose expertise is more closely aligned with the development of independent watch brands.
The potential also lies in the design
A key advantage of EBEL is its distinctive design heritage.
While many Swiss watch brands define their positioning primarily through technical complications, in-house calibers, or historical achievements in watchmaking, EBEL is known for its highly recognizable design features.
This is especially true of the Sport Classic’s wave-pattern bracelet, but it also applies to the case designs and the blend of sporty and elegant elements that have characterized many of the brand’s models.
Especially given the renewed interest in historic watch designs, this heritage could serve as an important foundation for future development.
A repositioning, therefore, would not necessarily have to involve a fundamental change in the product’s identity. Rather, the opportunity could lie in further building on existing strengths and appealing to new target groups.
However, no specific details regarding future collections, pricing, or distribution strategy are available at this time.
The historical heritage is also changing hands
In addition to trademark rights, intellectual property, and inventory, the transaction includes other assets. These include the Villa Turque in La Chaux-de-Fonds, a building designed by the architect Le Corbusier.
This historic building is closely linked to EBEL’s identity and symbolizes the fusion of architecture, design, and watchmaking that has defined the brand for decades.
Thus, the acquisition encompasses not only the company’s operations but also a significant part of its cultural and creative heritage.
New Perspectives for an Established Brand
The change in ownership at EBEL highlights two distinct strategic approaches within the watch industry. While Movado continues to focus on its volume-driven brand and licensing business, the new owners are committed to an environment that combines independent watchmaking, luxury brand management, and long-term brand development.
For EBEL, this situation opens up new opportunities. The brand has a well-established identity, established collections, and a historical legacy that still clearly sets it apart from many competitors today.
The key factor will be what strategic priorities the new owners set and how they succeed in further developing the brand’s existing strengths.
EBEL does not need to reinvent itself. Rather, the opportunity lies in making more consistent use of its existing potential under changed circumstances.
