Cammilli Firenze: Sultana and HELIA Set Gold in Motion
With Sultana and HELIA 2027, Cammilli Firenze showcases two distinct facets of its sculptural goldsmithing. While Sultana combines three distinctive shades of gold with diamonds and layered forms, HELIA features more expansive surfaces, flowing volumes, and variations with different diamond settings. Both collections are united by the idea of using gold not merely as a material, but as a malleable interplay of color, light, and movement.
Three shades of gold in one design
The Sultana earrings combine 18-karat White Ice, Natural Beige, and Black Lava gold. Rather than treating the three alloys as clearly distinct surfaces, Cammilli brings them together in softly curved, overlapping shapes. Diamonds add bright accents and enhance the contrast between the differently tinted surfaces.
The unusual gold tones are among the brand’s most important design elements. They result not only from the alloy but also from a specific surface treatment. Matte sections softly reflect the light, while polished edges and diamond accents create precise points of brilliance. This makes the individual layers of the earrings appear significantly more three-dimensional.
Sculptural Forms from Florence
Cammilli designs his jewelry from a sculptural perspective. Asymmetrical curves, indentations, and flowing transitions are characteristic of his work. In the case of “Sultana,” this results in a silhouette that is both compact and dynamic: the gold surfaces are reminiscent not so much of geometric constructions as of folded materials or those shaped by the wind.
Carlotta Fiasella Garbarino wore the earrings at the 83rd Venice International Film Festival. The backdrop of the Lido highlights how the three shades of gold react to changing light: White Ice appears cool and bright, Natural Beige bridges the color spectrum, while Black Lava defines the contours.
Gold Color
What makes Sultana unique is the gold palette itself. Cammilli treats the precious metal as a colored material and uses surfaces, shadows, and volume as part of the composition. The diamonds remain important points of light, but they let the three shades of gold take center stage.
HELIA 2027: Light and Gold—A New Chapter
With HELIA 2027, Cammilli brings his sculptural work in gold to a new collection. It was unveiled on October 4 and 5, 2026, in Florence as part of “Beyond The Curtain.” The presentation combined a visit to the Collezione Casamonti with a performance at the restored Teatro Nazionale.
HELIA features generous gold surfaces and deliberately asymmetrical shapes. According to the brand, the shapes are hand-modeled directly in wax. In addition to an all-gold “Classique” version, the collection includes two-tone and multicolor designs, as well as the diamond-set “Pavé,” “Rivière,” and “Galaxy” styles.
