Watch News Briefing: Frédérique Constant, DOXA, Favre Leuba, and Formex

Bordeaux, pink, deep blue, and black with red accents: Frédérique Constant, DOXA, Favre Leuba, and Formex are featuring striking dials in their new editions. The designs range from the perpetual calendar to the compact diver’s watch and the hand-guilloché tourbillon, all the way to the ceramic watch with a meteorite dial.

Frédérique Constant: Perpetual Calendar in Bordeaux

The Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture features a burgundy sunburst dial. Frédérique Constant has limited the stainless steel model FC-776BRG3H6 to 100 numbered pieces. The case measures 40 millimeters in diameter and 12.25 millimeters in height; an onion-shaped crown and the surrounding railway-style minute track lend the design a historical touch.

The day of the week is displayed on the left, and the date at the 3 o’clock position. The month and leap year cycle share the display at the 12 o’clock position, while the moon phase is located at the 6 o’clock position. The automatic in-house caliber FC-776 mechanically accounts for the varying lengths of the months and the leap year cycle. It is a further development of the FC-775, with which the brand introduced its first in-house perpetual calendar in 2016.

The redesigned movement features an optimized winding mechanism and a new spring alloy. The power reserve is 72 hours. The sapphire crystal case back reveals, among other things, Geneva stripes, perlage, and the gold-colored oscillating weight. The price of this limited edition is 10,295 euros.

DOXA SUB 200T Afterglow: Pink After Sunset

For the SUB 200T Afterglow, DOXA is collaborating with its long-standing U.S. retail partner, Exquisite Timepieces. The inspiration comes from Exquisite Timepieces’ hometown of Naples on Florida’s west coast: the pink hue of the dial echoes the afterglow of the sky after sunset. The edition is limited to 50 pieces and is available exclusively through Exquisite Timepieces.

The 39-millimeter stainless steel case remains true to the proportions of the standard SUB 200T. A unidirectional rotating bezel, the signature rice-grain bracelet, and water resistance up to 200 meters preserve the character of this diver’s watch. A Swiss automatic movement displays the hours, minutes, seconds, and date. The special color thus primarily changes the appearance of an already established model.

Favre Leuba Chief Tourbillon: Hand-Guilloché Blue

Favre Leuba is releasing the Chief Tourbillon as the Guilloché Edition, limited to 25 pieces. Its deep blue dial is crafted on a traditional guilloché machine. The hand-finished barley grain pattern—Grain d’Orge—radiates outward from the center and shifts its play of light depending on the viewing angle. Rhodium-plated hands and applied hour markers are coated with Super-LumiNova C1 X1.

At the 6 o’clock position, the tourbillon rotates once per minute. The cage measures 14.85 millimeters and offers a generous view of the movement. The hand-wound FL T01 caliber is based on the Chronode C502, which was reworked by Jean-François Mojon for Favre Leuba. It operates at three hertz, features 23 jewels, and provides approximately 60 hours of power reserve.

The cushion-shaped steel case measures 41 millimeters in diameter and 11.45 millimeters in height. Domed, anti-reflective sapphire crystal protects the front; the sapphire caseback reveals the movement, decorated with anthracite-colored Geneva stripes. The steel bracelet, featuring H-shaped links and a folding clasp, is complemented by a black FKM rubber strap. Both are interchangeable.

Formex Essence Ceramica Dark Matter Redshift: Meteorite texture in black and red

With the Essence Ceramica Dark Matter Redshift, Formex is expanding the ceramic line introduced in March 2025. The new model combines a 41-millimeter case and a black zirconia ceramic strap with a solid Muonionalusta meteorite dial. Its black gold plating reveals the characteristic Widmanstätten structure, giving it an anthracite-colored to nearly black appearance. Red lettering, a red seconds hand, and red markers along the edge of the dial provide a striking contrast.

The predominantly sandblasted surfaces alter the character of the Essence Ceramica: The matte finish absorbs light and makes fingerprints less noticeable. Diamond-polished case bevels and a newly cut facet on the underside of the bezel create narrow, reflective contours. On the crown, which is also sandblasted, only the beveled side surface is polished. This creates a three-dimensional effect, primarily through the contrast between the matte surface and the glossy edge.

The technical design features a screw-down crown and the patented Case Suspension System. This spring-loaded case construction is designed to improve wearing comfort and shock absorption. The ceramic strap features a micro-adjustable clasp that allows the fit to be customized. In production, Formex collaborates with Dexel, the manufacturer of the case, strap, and clasp, as well as Cadranor, the dial specialist; all three companies are under the same family ownership.

Inside, the watch is powered by the Sellita SW200-2 Power+, which is certified as a chronometer by the COSC. This automatic caliber offers up to 65 hours of power reserve. According to Formex, the winding mechanism, regulation, and shock protection—among other features—have been revised compared to the previous movement base. The Redshift thus combines its new material and color scheme with a longer power reserve.

Reference 0336.4.6208.411 costs 4,190 euros on a ceramic strap. Formex limits production to 100 watches per year; the first series is individually numbered from 001 to 100. The watch was unveiled on October 16 at the Windup Watch Fair in New York, and the first deliveries are scheduled for late November 2026. Rubber, nylon, and leather straps are sold separately.