Vicenzaoro Preview: Brusi - Milanese natural beauties - with interview by designer Andrea Codari

Brusi's Milanese jewelry studio transforms diamonds and colored gemstones into romantic jewelry designs with harmonious, natural shapes. We present the jewelry that can be admired at Vicenzaoro. Andrea Codari, the brand's designer, talks to us about his creations, Italian design, and explains why, for him, everything begins with the gemstone.

Colored gemstones and diamonds in the spirit of nature

During its appearance at Vicenzaoro in September, Brusi will focus on its two collections, "Shapes" and "Polky." The "Shapes" collection focuses on white and brown diamonds. Their cuts and composition lend the jewelry a harmonious and natural image, exuding exceptional beauty and elegance.

The "Polky" collection celebrates the beauty and vibrant colors of natural gemstones. The round, soft shapes and vibrant colors make "Polky" jewelry pieces playful everyday companions. The jewelry from this collection also bears Brusi's signature: The creations thrive on deliberate asymmetry, which lends them a sense of warmth, naturalness, and romance. The colored gemstone creations are further enhanced by highlights of white diamonds.

Designer Andrea Codari in an interview

Brusi is a family business, with the Milan-based studio run by three siblings: Andrea, Paola, and Simone Codari. Officially, Andrea Codari designs the brand's unique jewelry pieces, but the siblings share a shared philosophy and dedication to jewelry, as well as a sense of aesthetics and quality.

INSIGHT LUXURY: Andrea, how would you describe Italian design?

Andrea Codari: For me, Italian design is the ability to harmoniously, originally, and elegantly combine different aspects of a product—function, materials, and aesthetics.
We have the ability to constantly face new challenges while maintaining our curious view of the world around us – without ever losing our personal style.
This allows us – perhaps more than others – to create objects that the market perceives as interesting and unique.

IL: How would you describe your approach to jewelry design?

AC: In my approach to design, I often use the phrases "perfect asymmetry" and "natural jewel." My goal has always been to give the finished object, crafted from metal, a strong connection to its natural components—namely, the gemstones and, more broadly, nature itself. I'm fascinated by the idea that a piece of jewelry, beyond its role as a status symbol, fashion accessory, and keepsake, can also evoke an image we're used to from nature—something we've internalized and that resonates with us on a deep level.

Over the past few years, I've been working on simplifying our collections and distilling them down to their essence.

In the 1990s, my jewelry collections typically began with a strong concept, expressed primarily through shapes and sizes. The gemstones for these pieces were chosen afterward, primarily to reflect these ideas. 

Today, my creative process looks completely different: I start with the gemstones. I love searching for them, selecting them, and working exclusively with the pieces that truly inspire me.
This approach has led me to undertake numerous trips to the countries of origin of the gemstones in order to personally discover and evaluate what is available.

Once I've discovered a stone or group of stones, I consider how they can be incorporated into a collection. The result is many models that are often similar, yet always different and unique—united by a consistent vision and a recognizable style.

And all of this flows directly into my idea of why Italian design is so special.

IL: What does "Made in Italy” for you?

AC: For us at Brusi, "Made in Italy" means combining Italian design with the craftsmanship that distinguishes us in so many product sectors. In the jewelry sector, we look to a heritage of artistic know-how that must be preserved, while simultaneously requiring innovation through new manufacturing processes that make the sector internationally competitive.