Between chalk, art and champagne bubbles
From vineyard to global icon: The luxurious craftsmanship of champagne production
Although INSIGHT LUXURY usually focuses on the world of watches and jewelry, this time we're taking a look behind the scenes of another symbol of luxury – champagne. Its production demands just as much craftsmanship, tradition, and precision as the finest manufacturers.
The different stages of champagne production
An article for Insight Luxury by Nadine Rieck
There are places in this world where time doesn't pass, but matures. Places where silence isn't a lack of words, but a dialogue between nature and humankind. Champagne is one of these landscapes, where even the mist seems to whisper. And from this almost mystical topography arises a drink that crowns our celebrations, accompanies our victories, and soothes our disappointments—sometimes all at once.
But before the champagne so nonchalantly bubbles into our crystal glasses, it undergoes a journey of almost epic proportions. A journey in several stages – meaningful, with a touch of quiet earthiness that reminds us that even the most exquisite drink begins with soil beneath our fingernails.
We will now guide you through these different stages step by step.
1. From winter to bloom – the invisible foundation work in
Before a grape is ripe enough to eventually become Champagne, the work begins in the vineyard – with visible and invisible actions that shape the Champagne terroir. The winemakers there tend their plots with care, a discerning eye, and long-term planning.
Pruning begins as early as autumn, when the leaves fall. In Champagne, this step is essential – only after the dormant period are old or excess shoots removed to give the vine structure and renewed vigor for the coming year. Depending on the location and grape variety, different pruning methods are used: for example, the Chablis pruning, the Cordon pruning, the Guyot pruning, or the Vallée de la Marne pruning. These different methods influence how vigorously the vine grows and how concentrated the harvest will be – a crucial factor for quality and style.
In spring, excess shoots or side shoots are removed or thinned (sometimes called "ebourgeonnage"). Usually at the end of May, the young shoots are trained ("relevage") and in June, they are tied between wires ("palissage") to distribute the foliage evenly and ensure good ventilation and sunlight. This keeps the grapes healthy and ripening uniformly – a quiet masterpiece of order. In some vineyards (depending on the management method), the soil is cared for, organic matter is added or covered – this improves soil fertility and maintains a healthy microclimate. This is a particularly important aspect in sustainably managed vineyards.
From late August to early September (depending on weather and ripeness), the harvest begins, done by hand to ensure only perfect grapes are picked. Hundreds of hands work like a crescendo, each grape a note in the harmonious whole. Even without organic certification, strict regulations and traditions guarantee that quality and consistency are maintained throughout the entire region.
2. The grape harvest – when the day begins with dew and ends with back pain
Champagne grapes – Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, or Meunier – are always harvested by hand. This is called vendange manuale. The technical term sounds elegant, but simply means: standing bent over and hoping it doesn't rain.
The ripeness of the grapes is determined meticulously, because the resulting Champagne thrives on freshness and finesse, not on excessive sweetness. A winemaker from Épernay once explained with a smile that the art lies in picking the grapes "when they are ready – and not when we are ready." An elegant way of saying: Nature is in charge.
3. The pressing – the „cuvée“ moment
After harvesting comes the gentle pressing. The best must, obtained from the first pressings, is called cuvée. The first pressing yields the finest, clearest must. The second pressing – called taille – is more robust. Both can later become Champagne, but the difference is about as subtle as that between silk and satin: only connoisseurs can discern it, but everyone feels it.
4. The first fermentation – the quiet beginning of a sparkling destiny
After pressing and clarifying the must, the first fermentation begins in Champagne, the phase in which sugar is converted into alcohol – and the wine becomes what is known in the trade as Vin Clair: the pale, still base wine from which Champagne is later made. A cellar master once told me that this wine is „like a teenager: still a little unfinished, but full of potential.“.
And where and how does the fermentation take place?
Today, the first fermentation usually takes place in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks.
These tanks provide a neutral, controlled environment that helps to clearly preserve the fruit aromas of the grapes and create a clean, fresh base.
However, some producers prefer wooden barrels or large wooden vats – either out of a sense of tradition or to achieve certain styles.
Historically, this was the norm: all champagnes were once fermented in wood.
Concrete or cement tanks – formerly common – can also be found in some basements (often with a protective coating), although stainless steel dominates.
Depending on the choice of fermentation vessel, the later profile of the base wine can differ: wood, for example, can provide additional aromas (e.g., light vanilla notes), while stainless steel remains neutral and emphasizes the fruit.
Process and effect of fermentation
Immediately after bottling, the first fermentation begins—the must "bubbles" as the yeasts metabolize the grapes' natural sugars. This process produces alcohol, carbon dioxide, and a multitude of aromatic compounds that contribute to the fresh, vibrant character typical of young base wines. The first fermentation can occur either with the natural yeasts present on the grapes or with the addition of selected yeasts. Large Champagne houses and modern production methods almost always use added, cultured yeasts because they allow for greater control over the style of the Champagne.
The temperature is strictly controlled during fermentation—usually between 16 and 20 °C (sometimes 18–22 °C, depending on the house and style)—to ensure a consistent, gentle fermentation and to prevent the development of excessive unwanted aromas or heat. This typically lasts about two to three weeks. Afterward, the wine usually has around 10–11% alcohol by volume—precisely the range from which the finished Champagne is later produced after bottle fermentation and aging.
Sometimes a malolactic fermentation (MLF) is carried out afterwards (but this is optional): In this process, bacteria convert the sharp malic acid into milder lactic acid, which gives the wine more body, finesse, and a softer acid profile – however, this procedure is not mandatory and depends on the desired style. Forgoing MLF results in a base wine that is fresher, more acidic, and more vibrant.
The timing of the completion of the first fermentation and the transition to MLF or resting can vary from winery to winery. Some allow the base wine to rest ("vin clair") after fermentation and store it for some time before proceeding.
Chaptalization (adding sugar before fermentation if the must does not contain enough natural sugar) can also be practiced in some cases – this naturally affects alcohol content and style.
The base wine from the first fermentation lays the foundation: this is where it's decided how clear, fresh, and vibrant the later Champagne will taste—or how much complexity and structure it will possess. A wooden fermenter can impart more texture and depth, while a stainless steel tank can contribute subtlety and fruitiness.
5. Assemblage – the art of composing
The blending process is the heart of Champagne making. Here, different base wines – often from different vineyards, grape varieties, and vintages – are married together.
The cellar master becomes a conductor: he composes harmonies, seeks balance, and juxtaposes elegance and structure. Large wineries sometimes taste over a hundred base wines for this purpose. It's a process that demands discipline and a palate as precise as a Swiss watch.
6. Bottled, tirage and second fermentation – the beginning of the magic
After the blending, when the Vin Clair is ready, the Champagne enters a crucial phase of its transformation: the mise en bouteille with the addition of the tirage solution. In this process, the base wine is filled into the final Champagne bottle – and along with it, a mixture of sugar and yeast is added.
This step is the key to the second fermentation, the so-called prise de mousse, from which the characteristic bubbles later emerge.
The bottles are tightly sealed, usually initially with a crown cap or temporary stopper, and taken to the cool chalk cellars. There, the second fermentation begins inside: the yeast ferments the sugar, produces carbon dioxide which remains dissolved in the wine, and causes the pressure to rise – creating the sparkling heart of Champagne.
The bottles now rest for months, often years, in the famous cellars of Champagne. The cool, humid environment ensures slow maturation; the aromas develop, the texture refines – and a still base wine transforms into a vibrant, sparkling experience. This phase is quiet, almost imperceptible, yet crucial: Here begins the magic that lends each glass its freshness, elegance, and vibrancy.
7. Maturation on the lees – Vieillissement sur lies
After the second fermentation, the bottles rest on the lees, the so-called lees. This phase is called... Vieillissement sur lies And it is crucial for the development of complexity, finesse, and aroma. The aging period for non-vintage wines is at least 15 months, and for millésimé wines at least 3 years.
During this time, the yeast slowly works on the wine: it breaks down sugars and other components, releases aromatic compounds, and gives the Champagne a delicate creaminess as well as notes of bread, nuts, and brioche. This patient interplay of time, yeast, and wine makes the difference between a simple base wine and a Champagne of elegance and depth.
8. The shaking – a daily dance
Then another step takes place in the darkness of the cellars: the remuage, the riddling of the bottles.
The process simply involves moving the dead yeast cells, which formed during bottle fermentation, out of the wine. The aim is to transport them to the neck of the bottle, where they can later be removed – a clean process without which the champagne would appear cloudy and unsettled.
Historically, remuage was done by hand. The bottles stood in wooden racks, called pupitres, and were carefully turned and tilted daily for weeks. Every movement had to be precise. This task required experience, patience, and a deft hand.
Today, gyropalettes make the work easier. They automate the turning and tilting process for several hundred bottles simultaneously, significantly reducing the duration and making the process less labor-intensive. Nevertheless, manual riddling remains common practice in many tradition-conscious Champagne houses, especially for prestige cuvées or large bottle formats, because the experienced hand of a cellar master recognizes subtleties that machines cannot perceive.
At the end of the remuage process, all the yeast sediment is collected in the neck of the bottle. The bottle is now ready for disgorgement, the removal of the yeast sediment, and the champagne can develop its full clarity, brilliance, and elegance.
9. Disgorging – a controlled liberation strike
During disgorgement, the yeast plug is removed from the neck of the bottle. For this, the neck of the bottle is frozen. When opened, the frozen plug shoots out due to the internal pressure – a small, elegant burst of energy.
10. Dosage and Finale – the signature of the house
After the wine has been freed from all yeast residue through disgorgement, the Champagne faces its final major step: the Liqueur d'expédition (dosage liqueur or shipping dosage) is added to the bottle – a mixture of wine (often a mature reserve wine) and cane sugar (however, technical improvements have made it possible to gradually replace this with sugar beets).
This process is called dosage and is crucial: it not only determines the sweetness, but also shapes the final style and character of the champagne.
The quantity and composition of this dosage are often a closely guarded secret of the house – that final artistic touch that distinguishes one Champagne from another. Some producers choose a neutral dosage to leave the wine's personality unaltered; others use aged reserve wines or even a touch of Esprit de Cognac to create additional nuances and depth.
The final dosage determines how the champagne is labelled – from „bone dry“ to „sweet“.
| Designation | Residual sugar / dosage (g/l) |
| Brut Nature / zero dosage / non dosé | < 3 g/l |
| Extra Brood | 0 – 6 g/l |
| Brood | < 12 g/l |
| Extra Dry (Extra Sec) | 12 – 17 g/l |
| Sec | 17 – 32 g/l |
| Demi-Sec | 32 – 50 g/l |
| Doux | > 50 g/l (rare in Champagne) |
Depending on the dosage — and thus the degree of sweetness — the sensory profile of the champagne also changes:
Brut Nature / Extra Brut: Very dry, with a clear emphasis on acidity, minerality, terroir and varietal character — ideal for purists who appreciate freshness and authenticity.
Brood: The classic style — the sugar has a balancing effect, slightly softening the acidity and creating a harmonious balance without losing freshness and elegance.
Extra Dry / Sec / Demi-SecA sweeter dosage makes the champagne rounder and softer. Fruity aromas become more pronounced, and the wine often has a more opulent, smoother mouthfeel.
DouxVery sweet, traditionally used as a dessert champagne; more comparable to sweet sparkling wines than to modern dry champagnes.
Immediately after dosing, the bottle is corked—the cork, secured with a wire cage (le muselet), ensures that the wine retains its fine bubbles and no gas escapes. Afterwards, a brief shaking often follows to ensure the liqueur d'expédition and wine mix homogeneously before the champagne is labeled and shipped.
With this final step — the dosage — each champagne receives its unmistakable „signature“: precisely the balance, length and aromatics that the house intends.
These different stages reveal that champagne is more than just a drink. It is a silent work of time, a testament to patience and craftsmanship, in which chalk and silence combine to offer, for a fleeting moment, the illusion that life itself shines from the depths of stillness.
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