Watch-News Briefing: Aviation Instruments, the Deep Sea, Surrealism, and Artificial Darkness
Featuring watches from Alpina, Blancpain, U-Boat, and Exaequo—from a mechanical world premiere for pilots to a diver’s watch designed for expeditions lasting several hours, and ranging from surrealist timepieces to photochromatic dials: The latest innovations demonstrate just how diverse contemporary watchmaking can be interpreted today.
Alpina: The Pilot’s Watch Becomes a Navigation Instrument
In collaboration with Watch Angels, Alpina presents the Startimer Pilot Chronograph Automatic IFR, limited to 300 pieces.
What makes it special: The watch was developed specifically for instrument pilots and introduces a mechanical function that is unique to date. A special bezel allows for the immediate reading of approach procedures in holding patterns—an important component of professional IFR flight operations. This function is complemented by a chronograph, UTC display, and a newly designed 43-millimeter case. As a result, the watch goes far beyond the classic aviation aesthetic and is designed as a true tool for pilots.
Alpina: Startimer Pilot Chronograph Automatic IFR
Blancpain: More time at depth
With the new Fifty Fathoms Tech, Blancpain is taking the concept of the professional diver’s watch to the next level. At its heart is the three-hour bezel, introduced back in 2023, which was specifically designed for long dives using rebreather systems. Instead of the usual 60 minutes, dive times of up to three hours can now be recorded directly.
Blancpain: Fifty Fathoms Tech
This new model is complemented by a new strap-changing system, a nearly light-absorbing black dial, and a five-day power reserve. At the same time, Blancpain once again underscores its longstanding commitment to marine research and species conservation through its Ocean Commitment.
U-BOAT: When Light Creates Darkness
With the Darkmoon Kama, U-BOAT presents one of the most unusual new releases of the year. The photochromatic dial reacts to sunlight and actively changes color. The blue and green versions darken to a deep black, while the gray version takes on a violet hue. This effect is enhanced by the oil filling characteristic of the Darkmoon collection, which further intensifies the depth and color effect. The result is less a classic timepiece and more a visual experiment exploring light, perception, and time.
U-BOAT: Darkmoon Kama
Exaequo x Salvador Dalí: Surrealism in a Compact Format
Following the debut of its first models, Exaequo is expanding its official Salvador Dalí collection with the new Le Minuscule line. The characteristic “melting” case shape is retained but scaled down to more compact proportions of 40.5 x 26 millimeters. Inspired by Dalí’s famous “Persistence of Memory,” the collection combines surrealist design with Swiss craftsmanship. Limited editions and deliberately chosen quantities—including 888 pieces as a reference to Dalí’s work “Soft Watch Exploding into 888 Particles”—underscore the artistic ambition of the series.
