Watch News Briefing “Specials”: Black Holes, the Deep Sea, and the Tourbillon

Three extraordinary sports watches, three very different perspectives: Bremont explores the depths of the universe with Stephen Hawking, Linde Werdelin is redeveloping its Oktopus diver’s watch from the ground up, and ArtyA transforms a large-scale tourbillon in a transparent sapphire case into a mechanical spectacle. This edition of “Watch News in Brief” brings together three special features in which history is just as important as technology.

Bremont Supernova Hawking: A Watch About Black Holes

Stephen Hawking transformed our understanding of black holes. His theoretical work showed that these cosmic objects are not completely black, but emit radiation, have a temperature, and can change over unimaginably long periods of time. Bremont draws on this scientific legacy with the Supernova Hawking—the second collaboration with the family of the physicist, who passed away in 2018.

Limited to 600 pieces, this watch is based on the Supernova Chronograph introduced in 2026. Its 41-millimeter case and integrated bracelet are crafted from highly corrosion-resistant 904L stainless steel and feature a deep black DLC coating. The ten-sided, faceted bezel made of black ceramic enhances the technical, almost futuristic look.

On the multi-layered dial, a black grid with triangular patterns evokes the solar panels of a spacecraft. The connection to the cosmos is even more direct on the sub-dials at three and nine o’clock: they are made of genuine meteorite, whose natural structure makes each piece slightly different. At six o’clock are Hawking’s name and the equation for the temperature of a black hole.

Inside, the chronometer-certified automatic caliber BC77 powers the central chronograph seconds hand, the 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, and the small seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock; the date window is located at 6 o’clock. The movement beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers a 62-hour power reserve. It remains visible through the sapphire crystal case back, framed by a motif reminiscent of a black hole’s vortex. The watch is water-resistant to 100 meters.

Linde Werdelin Oktopus III: The Third Generation for Deep Dives

Since 2010, the Oktopus has represented Linde Werdelin’s unique take on the diver’s watch. Its angular, multi-piece case design has been unmistakable from the very beginning. The Oktopus III now marks the beginning of the third generation—and although the family resemblance remains immediately recognizable, the watch was almost entirely redesigned over a period of more than two years.

The five-piece case of the green version is made of Grade 5 titanium. It measures 45 millimeters wide, 49 millimeters long, and 13 millimeters thick. This gives it a more compact appearance than its predecessor, without losing the collection’s distinctive armored look. The screw-down crown and screw-down sapphire crystal case back contribute to its water resistance of 300 meters.

The two-layer dial has also been redesigned. Its structure is inspired by the Earth’s grid of meridians and parallels. Beneath the sea-green top layer lies a layer coated with Super-LumiNova; cut-out numerals at 12 and 6 o’clock, along with molded luminous indices, ensure clear readability. The triangular, diamond-cut hands feature additional luminous blocks.

The most significant innovation lies beneath the dial. The LW09 automatic caliber was developed in collaboration with Jean-François Mojon and Chronode in Le Locle. It consists of 247 components and 35 jewels, operates at four hertz, and offers more than 60 hours of power reserve. The design of the bridges and rotor echoes the angular architecture of the case. The Oktopus III deliberately focuses on hours, minutes, and seconds—a nod to the original Oktopus and, at the same time, a clear commitment to readability.

ArtyA Purity Tourbillon Sport: Mechanical Movement in Colored Sapphire

At ArtyA, there is virtually no boundary between the case and the movement. The Purity Tourbillon Sport Edition fully exposes its mechanics and encases them in a 44-millimeter “Wavy” sapphire case. The transparent material gives the watch a light, airy appearance, even though its mechanical presence is anything but understated. Color accents on the gasket and strap give each of the four versions its own distinct identity.

At the heart of the watch is a fully skeletonized in-house caliber from ArtyA. Two mainsprings connected in parallel provide a power reserve of 70 hours. The hours, minutes, and seconds are displayed centrally; in addition, the seconds can be read directly on the flying tourbillon.

With a diameter of 18 millimeters, its balance cage is among the larger designs in haute horlogerie. It completes one revolution in 60 seconds and, despite its size, operates at a frequency of four hertz, or 28,800 half-vibrations per hour. A variable-inertia balance wheel is designed to support precise regulation and resistance to shocks. Hand-polished bevels on the deeply cut bridges further highlight the mechanical architecture.

The sapphire case features a screw-down open caseback and a crown made of the same material. Sapphire has a hardness rating of 9 on the Mohs scale, making it extremely scratch-resistant, but it requires a great deal of effort to work with. The Purity Tourbillon Sport Edition is limited to nine pieces and combines this material technology with a tourbillon that is not hidden away but instead becomes the visible focal point of the watch.