Watch News Briefing: The Intention of Color

Yellow wants to be seen. Blue seeks depth. Teal becomes a brand code. Mother-of-pearl does whatever it wants anyway. And “Blue with Gold” has “royal” right in its name. These five new designs show just how much meaning can be packed into color—as a signal, an indication of origin, a mark of craftsmanship, a symbol of recognition, or a creative departure.

The latest releases showcase this in very different ways, and with one exception, they are all limited editions: Bell & Ross uses signal yellow from the world of aviation, MARLI opts for its signature blue-green (teal), Alexander Shorokhoff works with mother-of-pearl and contrasts, Depancel draws on a historic automotive motif, and AWAKE combines blue with gold and lacquer craftsmanship.

Bell & Ross BR-03 Helipad: Yellow as a Signal

The BR-03 Helipad stays true to this design philosophy, but uses color for more than just accent. The yellow signifies visibility, markings, and a landing zone. Together with the black ceramic case, it creates a contrast that stems more from the world of functional indicators than from classic watch decoration.

The dial incorporates the image of a helipad into the time display. The rotating hour disc becomes a landing pad, the helicopter indicates the minutes, and the rotor blades serve as the seconds indicator. This keeps the watch true to Bell & Ross’s world of aviation instruments, yet gives it a more narrative feel than many models in the classic BR-03 line. The color plays a key role in this readability: it draws the eye and makes the motif immediately recognizable.

^{Bell & Ross BR-03 Helipad with a black synthetic strap or a yellow rubber strap}

Technical Details:

• Case: black ceramic
• Diameter: 41 mm
• Height: 10.60 mm
• Movement: BR-CAL.327, automatic
• Power reserve: 54 hours
• Functions: Hours, Minutes, Seconds
• Display: Hours via rotating disc, minutes via helicopter-style hand, seconds via rotor blades
• Dial: Helipad motif with a yellow Super-LumiNova X2 area
• Water resistance: 100 meters
• Limited edition: 500 copies

About the Brand: Bell & Ross is closely associated with instrument watches and the aesthetics of cockpit displays. For years, the brand has been dedicated to bringing technical displays from aviation and navigation to the wrist.

MARLI Teal L35: Blue-Green as a Brand Code

^{MARLI Teal L35}

At MARLI, color is part of the brand’s identity. The Teal L35 draws on the brand’s signature blue-green hue—a shade between blue and green that is commonly referred to internationally as “teal.” Combined with rose gold, diamonds, and mother-of-pearl, the result is not a tool watch, but a jewelry watch with a mechanical movement.

That is precisely what sets it apart from many classic color variations. Here, the blue-green is not merely a seasonal color, but a distinctive feature. It draws on the brand’s jewelry heritage and translates it into a watch that relies more on materials, luster, and proportions than on an instrumental aesthetic.

Technical Details:

• Case: 18-karat rose gold
• Stone Setting: 60 diamonds on the bezel, 4 diamonds on the crown
• Diamond weight: 0.924 carats total
• Dial: Mother-of-pearl
• Movement: ETA 2892-A2, Swiss automatic movement
• Finishing: circular polishing and Geneva stripes

About the Brand: MARLI New York has its roots in the jewelry industry and is known for its clean, urban design aesthetic. The brand’s watches combine jewelry aesthetics with Swiss watchmaking technology.

Alexander Shorokhoff Big Date MOP: Color as a Design Element

The Big Date MOP makes much bolder use of color. Black mother-of-pearl, yellow mother-of-pearl, a colored seconds ring, and a petrol-colored leather strap define this model. The large date window at 12 o’clock gives the chronograph structure, while the mother-of-pearl takes on a different appearance depending on the light.

The result is a watch in which color was not simply added to an existing design concept. Instead, it defines the entire architecture of the dial. The technical displays remain clearly recognizable, yet are set within a deliberately vibrant environment. This is in keeping with the brand, which frequently combines technical functions with design originality.

Technical Details:

• Movement: Dubois-Dépraz DD4500, automatic chronograph
• Power reserve: approx. 42 hours
• Housing: Stainless steel with a glass bottom
• Diameter: 43.5 mm
• Water resistance: 5 atm
• Limited edition: 30 copies

About the Brand: Alexander Shorokhoff is known for an expressive design language and a deliberately unique approach to color. The brand often combines classic mechanics with dials that stand out distinctly from conventional watch designs.

Depancel Série-R Chronograph Ice Blue: Color Inspired by Automotive Design

The color of the Série-R Chronograph Ice Blue is directly inspired by the automotive world. Depancel cites a 1947 Talbot-Lago T26 with a body by Figoni & Falaschi as a reference. Not only the shape of the car, but above all the combination of deep blue surfaces and a light blue body is reflected on the dial.

As a result, Ice Blue doesn’t come across as just a trendy color variation here. The shade is part of a historical design concept. The rectangular case, the vertical lines, and the alternation of brushed and polished surfaces draw inspiration from classic automobiles. The color complements this design language without overshadowing it.

^{Depancel Série-R Chronograph Ice Blue}

Technical Details:

• Case: 316L stainless steel
• Dimensions: 40 x 36 mm
• Movement: Peacock SL-4801, automatic chronograph
• Power reserve: 55 hours
• Water resistance: 50 meters / 5 ATM
• Limited edition: 100 numbered copies

About the Brand: The French brand Depancel draws heavily on historic automobiles and the design of classic cockpits, car bodies, and racing details. The brand translates these references into watches with a clearly recognizable automotive theme.

AWAKE Royal Blue: Blue, Gold, and Lacquer art

With Royal Blue, the focus is not only on the color itself, but also on how it is created. AWAKE combines the Vietnamese Sơn Mài lacquer technique with gold leaf and natural blue pigments. The dials are created in layers of lacquer, gold, and paint; according to the brand, each dial requires about 15 hours of work.

Here, blue and gold are not simply a color combination, but a theme centered on materials and light. The blue pigments add depth, while the gold brings warmth and reflection. As a result, the watch leans more toward artisanal dial artistry than a classic color variation. Also of interest is the new 38-mm case, which presents the intricate dial work in a comparatively wearable format.

^{AWAKE: Son Mai – Frosted Royal Blue}

Technical Details:

• Dial: handcrafted using the Sơn-Mài lacquer technique, gold leaf, and natural blue pigments
• Water resistance: 10 ATM / 100 meters
• Movement: La Joux-Perret G101, automatic
• Power reserve: 68 hours
• Rotor: Customized Tungsten Rotor
• Strap: Jean-Rousseau strap made of blue Alcantara with a rubber-lined calfskin lining
• Limited edition: 200 numbered copies

About the Brand: AWAKE works with handcrafted dials and often views watch design as a fusion of contemporary design and Métiers d’Art techniques. The brand also uses its models to adapt traditional methods to a modern context.

Color speaks louder than technology

These five new releases demonstrate the diverse ways in which color is used in watch design. At Bell & Ross, it serves as a signal; at MARLI, it’s a means of brand recognition; at Alexander Shorokhoff, it’s an expression—and, essentially, the brand’s signature; at Depancel, it’s a historical reference; and at AWAKE, it’s part of the craftsmanship.

What they have in common is this: Color is no longer just the final touch in product development. It is part of a watch’s message. It doesn’t explain everything, but it creates the initial connection—often more quickly than the case shape, movement specifications, or complications.