INSIGHT SECOND MARKET: Jewelry and Watches at Geneva November Auctions
A necklace from Queen Mary’s collection, rare colored gemstones, and exceptional timepieces by Daniel Roth and George Daniels: The November auctions in Geneva hosted by Phillips and Sotheby’s feature significant pieces with documented histories of ownership and provenance.
Phillips Geneva: Gemstones and Royal Provenance
The Geneva Jewels Auction VII will take place on November 9, 2026, at 3:00 p.m. CET at the Hôtel President Wilson. The full preview will run from November 4 through 9. In addition to significant colored gemstones, the “Collections & Provenance” section will highlight jewelry pieces with a traceable history of ownership.
Among these is a cultured pearl and diamond necklace that Queen Mary commissioned in 1928 from the London jeweler Hennell. It is a replica of the “Golden Jubilee Necklace” that Queen Victoria received in 1888. Queen Mary later gave her version to her niece, Mary Somerset, Duchess of Beaufort. The estimated value ranges from 125,000 to 180,000 Swiss francs.
The openwork necklace combines floral and cloverleaf motifs with 21 cultured pearls ranging in size from approximately 5.85 to 13.50 millimeters. Its provenance gives it a different kind of significance than a gemstone valued solely on the basis of size and quality: here, the occasion of its creation and its history are part of the jewelry’s identity.
Among the colored gemstones, a 1.35-carat Fancy Vivid Blue diamond tops the selection. Phillips estimates its value at 1.85 to 2.9 million Swiss francs. A ring featuring a 16.40-carat untreated Kashmir sapphire falls within the same estimated price range. The collection also includes other sapphires, emeralds, and signed pieces from major jewelry houses.
Another page of the catalog features the “Puppy” brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels, dating from around 1966. The little dog is crafted from gold, emeralds, and onyx; the estimated price ranges from 7,000 to 10,000 Swiss francs. It is precisely such objects that illustrate the breadth of the auction, ranging from significant gemstones to wearable, signed jewelry and narrative one-of-a-kind pieces.
Sotheby’s Geneva: Complications and Special Orders
Sotheby’s lists its Geneva “Important Watches” auction in the current calendar of events for November 8 and 9, 2026. The preview is scheduled for November 5–7 at the Mandarin Oriental. The catalog features 184 lots and combines established collector’s pieces with works by independent watchmakers.
One example is Lot 27: a Daniel Roth calendar watch in white gold set with diamonds, reference C117SBCSL02, dating from around 1997. The watch comes from its original owner; correspondence documents the special commission for the diamond setting. It is powered by an automatic Caliber 8810 and is estimated at 160,000 to 320,000 Swiss francs. A yellow-gold George Daniels Millennium from 2001 is estimated at 300,000 to 600,000 Swiss francs.
The comparison highlights two distinct areas of interest for collectors: the personal story behind a special commission and the significance of an independent watchmaker. Both can be traced through this specific lot. The catalog information and the current schedule provide details on the sessions and viewing.
Rolex “Batman”: The Reference Remains Key
Even within a well-known model family, it’s worth taking a closer look. In the case of the black-and-blue GMT-Master II, “Batman” is a collector’s nickname, not an official model reference. The 116710BLNR, introduced in 2013, was followed by the 126710BLNR, which is available with both Jubilee and Oyster bracelets. Sotheby’s background information on the “Batman” puts this development into context. When comparing individual listings, the reference number, year of manufacture, condition, bracelet, and accessories remain the key factors.
